The spinning rod is broken - repair it yourself. The handles are very skillful (we fix a broken spinning rod)

13.10.2019

Many fishermen find themselves in a situation where the tackle may break during fishing and the spinning rod will need to be repaired. Everyone gets out of this situation differently: someone buys a new tackle, someone buys the necessary elbow, some are looking for a craftsman who will repair the fishing rod. Every fisherman should know how to repair a broken spinning rod, because no one is immune from breakdown.

Repairing a spinning rod with your own hands is a completely accessible process for everyone who has this equipment. After repair according to our instructions, the spinning rod will serve you for many more years.

First stage

When repairing a fishing rod with your own hands, you can use fiberglass. This material can be purchased at construction stores, auto shops. But it is worth remembering that fiberglass does not have the same elasticity as carbon fiber. Therefore, in order to preserve the sensitivity of carbon rods as much as possible, it is better to use carbon fiber rather than fiberglass. This material is not difficult to get, just type it into a search engine on the Internet, and consider it in your pocket. The thinnest carbon fabric is suitable for repairing spinning rods. It is important that the carbon fiber has unidirectional fibers. It will work better to bend the fishing rod where the tool has broken and, at the same time, have the minimum possible weight.

When repairing the tip of a spinning rod, it is better to use the thinnest carbon fabric. It is very difficult to buy in a store, but it can be obtained by burning the binder from the fragments of old broken carbon fiber fishing rods. It matters which piece we need to anneal. The principle is simple: if the tip has a diameter of 3 mm, then you need to multiply the diameter of the tip by 6 or 7 (not so important). Accordingly, if the tip is 3 mm, then the carbon fiber section must be at least 18 mm long.

It is necessary to burn out the carbon fiber binder. This is best done with a blowtorch outdoors. Don't be afraid of overheating the workpiece.

The melting point of carbon fiber is significantly higher than the combustion temperature of a gas burner. The annealing process must be completed when smoke has completely stopped coming from the workpiece.

Second phase

Before starting repairs, it is necessary to check the tip in advance for cracks. If there is a long longitudinal crack in the top, then there is no point in starting repairs, because it will not be possible to fix it. If everything is fine, then you need to use a needle file to align both broken edges of the fishing rod tip. All this needs to be done under stream cold water, because if you inhale carbon fiber dust, you can get a serious allergic reaction.

In addition, it is necessary to remove the varnish from the rod blank on both sides of the breakage site. About 2 cm. This is necessary so that the epoxy resin can better adhere to the fishing rod blank.

We use one trick: we deliberately make the wall thickness at the gluing site thinner. Due to the fact that the wall decreases, the entire carbon fiber bandage will settle into this thinning. Thanks to this, the bandage will protrude very slightly above the form itself. The thickness of the bandage should be approximately 30-40% greater than the wall thickness of the broken rod itself in the place where it was broken.

Before repairing the fishing rod, you need to connect the two elbows. This must be done in such a way that it is possible to properly wrap the area of the breakdown with carbon fiber. The easiest way to do this is with plain paper. There is no need to complicate everything by driving carbon fiber bushings or fiberglass sticks into the form.

Because:

if you put glass or carbon fiber inside the tubes, the tube itself will break under load;
this will increase the weight of the rod in this place and the balance will be lost, as a result of a broken rod you will not be able to fish at the same level.

Take a small piece of baking paper (it is quite thin and stiff and soaks well in epoxy resin). Roll a piece of paper into a tube. It is necessary to make a tube of such a diameter that it can be easily inserted into both ends. Insert the paper into one half of the form, dilute the strengthening epoxy resin. Quick-drying epoxy will temporarily fix the broken tip in the correct position. Apply resin to the paper and insert it into the second part of the broken form. After the repair, the paper will remain inside the rod without changing the action or sensitivity of the tip. Wipe off excess resin.

After connecting both elbows, wait 5 minutes, keeping the rod in one position, so that the glue has time to set.

You need to mix not fast, but slow epoxy glue.

The procedure must be done using a syringe:

it is important to choose waterproof glue for repairing a fishing rod;
for ten parts of glue there is one part of hardener;
both components must be thoroughly mixed;
This epoxy dries in about 10 hours.

Wrap duct tape around the form above and below the area being repaired. This will help protect the whip from epoxy drips.

Take a piece of burnt carbon cloth and find the end of the bundle. Unfold the fabric. Longitudinal unidirectional fibers and a carbon mesh backing are clearly visible. Lubricate the gluing area with a thin layer of glue. Remove the longitudinal fibers from the piece and leave only the graphite backing. Wrap the mesh around the desired area.

Epoxy glue is highly toxic, so it is better to work with rubber gloves, but since making repairs requires delicate work, you can do it with your bare hands.

Now attach the longitudinal fibers, they will give the broken area rigidity. Due to the surface tension of the glue, which protruded above the carbon mesh, the carbon fibers adhere well to the area. Press the applied fibers with your fingers so that they are better saturated with glue. Secure the upper edge of the bandage with tape. This is necessary in order to thoroughly saturate all applied layers with epoxy. Don't be afraid to overdo it with glue, because all the excess can be removed later. As a result, the fishing rod will be reinforced with durable material.

Apply the tape to the unwrapped part of the rod and, pressing down firmly, wrap the layer of carbon fabric. The purpose of these actions is to squeeze out excess resin. Having reached the top tape, remove it and again saturate the fiber with epoxy. Wrap the area with tape all the way down to the duct tape. Repairing a spinning rod requires care.

Wait for the glue to dry (about 10 hours). After this you can remove the winding. Scotch tape and tape should be removed with a knife, because the glue is very strong. You need to work with a knife carefully so as not to damage the thin walls of the rod above and below the repair site.

Third stage

After all the steps you can see that appearance the spinning rod has deteriorated a little, but the tackle, as before, is working, because we did not introduce anything new into the design and the bending curve of the rod is still the same.

File the carbon fiber bandage under running water. It is necessary to reduce the diameter of the gluing area.

Using a motor and an abrasive wheel, smooth out any uneven areas where the glue is to be glued. To improve the appearance, you can sketch out the repair area with black felt-tip pens to slightly disguise any remaining adhesive. This completes the repair of the fishing rod and you can use the broken spinning rod.

This method is suitable for repairing a feeder rod. Since one of the subtypes of this gear is telescopic, it is also suitable for repairing a telescopic fishing rod. You can fish with a repaired tool for many more years.

Replacing the ring

Replacing a damaged ring is not as difficult as it seems. Every fisherman should know how to repair a spinning rod with his own hands. In addition, this will save your money, because carrying tackle to the workshop is not cheap.

The only thing that rod repair requires is patience and caution.

When replacing rings, you need to adhere to the following algorithm:

Buy a new ring, and you need to pay attention to the inner diameter.
Remove the old ring, heat the area to remove the braid.
Attach the new ring using epoxy resin and nylon thread
Wait until the glue dries and coat the repair area with clear varnish to strengthen it.

Every angler has experienced a breakdown of his fishing rod at least once in his life. This happened under different circumstances. Naturally, the question arises of how to repair a spinning rod with your own hands: the tip is broken, the tulip needs to be replaced, the handle has deteriorated, or the reel seat has stopped working. What to do?

Too serious damage to the fishing rod leads to a complete loss of its functionality. It is almost impossible to restore it. However, more often the defect turns out to be minor and must be eliminated. As a result, you can continue fishing with a repaired spinning rod.

You can have your fishing rod repaired by craftsmen who specialize in repairing fishing gear. The work of such professionals costs money, but the result is a spinning rod that has not lost its original characteristics and remains just as durable and reliable.

Very minor breakdowns can be repaired yourself, especially those that do not require the use of specialized devices, materials and tools. Everyone at school had labor lessons, so everyone can cope with minor damage.

Immediately after purchase, the angler handles the rod very carefully, even overly carefully. As a result, the spinning rod does not “open up” completely and it seems as if the purchase does not meet expectations. This behavior is typical for beginners, for whom this fishing rod is their first or second serious acquisition.

Over time, the angler gets used to the spinning rod, begins to behave more boldly and in some situations loses his vigilance. Such negligence most often leads to rod breakage. While on the shore, on the way to a reservoir, or when storing at home, the following troubles may occur:

You can accidentally step on your rod or a colleague’s rod. This happens if you carelessly put the spinning rod on the ground. Therefore, you should always place the fishing rod vertically, leaning it against a reliable support.
When assembling or disassembling a fishing rod, some people forget and lean the spinning rod on the car door or on the open trunk. An accidental gust of wind or touching the door can easily slam it, breaking the fishing rod.
When fishing from a watercraft, when casting, retrieving or retrieving, you can accidentally hit the form against the side of the boat. More often than not, this does not immediately lead to failure, but a crack appears on the spinning rod, which reduces its strength and leads to failure at the next load, which is close to critical.
Experienced lovers of sea fishing know well that carrying the fishing rod tip forward is strictly not recommended. The slightest loss of concentration leads to the fact that he can stick into the ground or “rest” against the nearest tree or bushes. The spinning rod should always be carried with the handle forward.
Each spinning rod has its own safety margin. One of the characteristics that shows its power is the lure test. Sometimes situations arise where you need to exceed the upper limit of the rod. However, not all fishing rods allow this. As a result, we have a breakdown, which, unfortunately, more often occurs in the handle area. Such a “stick” will no longer be repairable. Unless you can make yourself a “tool” for winter glitter from the upper knee.

Advice! Many Japanese rods do not allow the test to be exceeded. “Americans,” on the contrary, have an extraordinary margin of safety. Chinese products need to be tested during fishing, gradually approaching the upper limit.

Inexperienced fishermen often break their spinning rods when fishing incorrectly. Moreover, the form can “add up” not only from captured specimens. Most common mistake beginners sometimes want to quickly pull the predator ashore, and he pulls it straight ahead or tries to throw it onto land with a fishing rod. Also, when trying to take the fish with your hand, the rod is pulled back excessively behind the head. As a result, an angle of less than 90 degrees is formed between the fishing line and the blank, which can lead to trouble if there is a sudden sudden jerk.

Defects that arise during the manufacturing process of the blank and assembling the rod occur much less frequently than due to the negligence of spinning players. If we compare breakdowns associated with manufacturing defects and improper handling by the fisherman, the score will be 1:9 in favor of the second factor.

To avoid spinning rod breakdowns, you must always be careful and focused. Basic rules for handling gear should be observed. Fishing rods should be transported for fishing folded in a hard case or.

How can you repair a fishing rod with your own hands?

Not all breakdowns can be fixed with your own hands. But still, some are “treated” quite successfully, and with some experience in such work, it is almost impossible to notice that the fishing rod has been repaired. The main defects that you can eliminate yourself are:

rod tip breakage;
replacing the tulip;
replacing the ring;
elimination of defects in cork handles.

Let's consider each case separately.

Spinning rod tip repair

Of the defects listed above, this is the most complex. To repair the tip, you will need to select an internal rod of a suitable diameter. For example, you can take a sewing needle. It has a decent margin of safety, and at the same time its elasticity will have almost no effect on the operating parameters of the spinning rod.

Both ends of the broken form are cleaned and degreased.
The rod is lubricated with epoxy glue and inserted into the form.
Let the glue dry.
For reliability, the joint can be coated with colorless varnish or a bandage applied to it.

That's it, the repair of the spinning rod is completed, you can go to the pond.

Photo 1. Instead of the broken red tip, a new blue one was glued in.

Replacing the tulip

The need to replace the tulip may arise in the following situations:

formation of chips and other defects on the insert;
careless handling that led to a change in the shape of the tulip frame;
breakage of a small section of the solid tip of the spinning rod.

In all cases, the fisherman needs to choose a suitable tulip. To do this, you should measure the diameter of the tip and select the desired product model from the catalog of manufacturers of spinning accessories.

Important! You must try not to overheat the form, otherwise this will lead to its fragility and reduced strength.

We clean the seat with fine sandpaper and degrease it with alcohol.

Photo 3. We clean the tip to the depth of the tulip.

Then we apply epoxy glue to the tip.
We put on the tulip, maintaining alignment with other access rings.
We are waiting for the glue to harden.

That's it, the tulip has been replaced, the spinning rod looks like new.

Replacing the ring

The algorithm for replacing this element is similar to installing a new tulip:

We purchase a new pass ring, choosing it according to the inner diameter of the insert.
We remove the old one, heating the attachment point and removing the braid.
We install a new ring, gluing it with epoxy glue and placing a bandage made of durable nylon thread on top.
Let the glue dry. Cover the top area where the ring is installed with colorless varnish.

Photo 4. A ring wound with thread and coated with black varnish.

During the installation of a new guide ring, we make sure that the alignment is not disturbed. This is fraught with a decrease in casting range and the need to carry out repairs again.

Cork handle repair

Over time, chips and other defects appear on the cork handle. This causes some discomfort when fishing and does not look aesthetically pleasing. This nuisance can be easily restored. To do this you will need glue and cork material, which can be used as a regular champagne or wine cap:

Grate the cork.
Mix the resulting shavings with PVA glue.
We cover the existing defects with this mixture.
Let the glue dry.
Clean the handle with fine sandpaper.

The result is a refurbished handle that looks like new.

Probably everyone remembers the continuation of this folk wisdom which we try to follow for the most part life situations. It is unlikely, for example, that anyone would have the seditious idea of opening the body of an unexpectedly failed mobile phone or a CD player - such actions can only be performed by a qualified specialist, whose services we usually resort to.

We also show reasonable care when using other diverse and useful devices that have flooded our daily life. And it’s unlikely that anyone will test the performance properties of, say, a coffee grinder by pouring gravel into it.

But here’s an amazing thing: for some reason this rationality in handling does not apply to fishing accessories, in particular to a reel (despite its “sophistication” and cost) and any fishing rods. It just so happens that quite a lot of broken rods and “dead” reels of various ranks pass through my hands.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, these most important elements of almost any fishing gear have become unusable due to careless handling or as a result of exceeding the maximum permissible load for them.

The design flaws of these products and possible manufacturing defects in their manufacture amount to only 0.7% and are easily identified during inspection (of both rods and reels) at the time of purchase directly at the store counter. And sometimes you just wonder how you can ruin a completely reliable and high-quality product, often manufactured by a reputable company, in a super-short time.

I don’t want to believe that someone will purposefully mutilate a purchased rod or reel (although this sometimes happens), and I can only hope that all the damage occurs from inept handling of gear, especially at a time when adrenaline is, as they say, , gushes from the ears if a strong fish is raging at the other end of the fishing line, desperately fighting for its life.

The inability to handle a rod or reel in general and fishing in particular is based, as I see it, on the lack of basic information about the properties of these products and the materials from which they are actually made. Knowledge of these properties will help you have an idea of the real capabilities of certain models of rods and reels in practical fishing.

The many faces of carbon. Most modern fishing rods for different ways Fishing rods are made of carbon fiber-layered composite, which has almost completely replaced fiberglass, or, as it was also called, fiberglass (from fiber and glass), although the latter, in a slightly modified form, continues to be used in the production of fishing rods.

Carbon fiber plastic is an extremely lightweight material with a high modulus of elasticity, consisting of the finest carbon fibers, oriented along the length, and a binder - polymer resins (usually epoxy, although there have been experiments in using others - both polyester and phenol-based).

Carbon or carbon fiber has nothing in common with graphite except chemical formula WITH - physical properties These materials and structure are completely different, and therefore it is impossible to call carbon fiber rods “graphite”.

Carbon fiber is rather poorly wetted and ideal adhesion of the resins that bind it is very difficult to achieve (that is, the binder does not penetrate deeply into the carbon filaments), and it can rather be thought of as a kind of “packaging” that forms general shape composite products. Amount of binder in to a greater extent affects the properties of the fishing rod than the modularity of the carbon fiber itself.

For most modern fishing rods it ranges from 7 to 12%. The more binder, the softer (more flexible, or “slower” in action) and heavier the rod, but it bends almost into a wheel and allows sharply variable loads, which is important when playing fish short. With a decrease in the amount of binder with the same taper and filler, that is, carbon fiber, the rod becomes more rigid (“fast”) and its weight decreases.

This is especially noticeable in long plug rods designed for float fishing with shortened equipment. The technology for the production of blanks or individual elbows is such that it practically eliminates the formation of non-gluing and bubbles in the walls of the products, and the binder squeezed out during crimping under high pressure forms a glossy coating on the surface with characteristic spiral grooves.

Until recently, after crimping and polymerization of the binder, the blank or individual elbow was ground, and at this stage, sometimes the walls became thinner, which led to defects. Now production technology has improved significantly, and the need for grinding has disappeared.

The outer surface of the fishing rod is coated with a polymer varnish (usually containing a slightly higher percentage of plasticizer), which prevents the formation of chips and scratches due to external mechanical influence and is resistant to UV radiation. Topcoat varnishes can be colorless, transparent colored or dull, with a filler pigment.

Their task is to protect carbon fiber from damage and water penetration. The latter is quite important, since even with significant crimping of the form, it is theoretically impossible to exclude that the exposed section of carbon fiber (and it has some capillary effect) will not absorb water.

If the paint coating is damaged superficially to “charcoal”, its bending strength is significantly reduced, and even with a slight excess of load, a fracture may occur at the damage site.

make it a rule to carefully inspect fishing rods (especially those designed for swing casting of equipment or bait - spinning, fly, float, feeder) before and after fishing, especially if it involved moving through bushes, rocky shores or long-term transportation assembled (in working position) rod in the boat.

Physics and mechanics. Many amateur fishermen, who in childhood were accustomed to waving hose-like “telescopes” made of domestically produced fiberglass (and they sometimes allowed very free handling), but for some reason took a long break from the fishing path or wanted to introduce their beloved child to fishing, acquire modern “charcoal” rod, assuming that this new, “advanced” rod can handle absolutely everything.

And they are very surprised and indignant when suddenly an expensive fishing rod breaks into several pieces with a crash from a sharp swing of the tail of a perch or carp weighing barely more than half a kilo raised above the water. The child has tears, the father has swearing, and the seller in the store has a headache, because he cannot (and is not obliged!) to explain to everyone the physical and mechanical properties of carbon composites, and even more so to teach how to use a fishing rod correctly.

Or such a situation. An angry buyer comes and pokes the seller in the nose with a carbon “telescope” or a light spinning “stick” with a broken “tulip” on a piece of the tip 1.5-2 cm long. And with a holy, innocent smile he explains (and quite clearly) that he broke - where when casting or hooking, which cannot happen!

And “coal” is to blame for everything, or rather, its physical and mechanical properties, about which the unlucky fisherman had not the slightest idea. The fact is that carbon composites (especially with a small amount of binder) do not have plastic deformation, like, say, metal, but have elastic deformation, that is, they tend to take their original position under load - the outer side of the whip bent by a bow is stretched, while the inner side is compressed.

Moreover, the more binder, the more it is deformed, thereby protecting the “coal” fiber from destruction. That is why “sticks” that are “slow” in structure are more tenacious. As the bending load increases to a critical level, “dry” (with a small amount of binder) fishing rods literally burst without a warning crack, scattering into three or even more parts (not fractional ones!) during the “recoil”.

To imagine what happens to a fishing rod, let's look at the two examples of failure given above. In the first case, we have a traditional 7-meter flywheel “telescope” with a blind rig equal in length to the rod. When hooking and at the initial stage of landing a fish weighing half a kilo, we evenly loaded the entire rod, and the 0.14 mm line did not break.

This means that the load on the “telescope” was clearly less than 2.2 kg (this is the average tensile strength of a monofilament of the indicated diameter), approximately about 0.7 kg, since the fish weighs about 10% of its own mass in water and develops traction, approximately equal to it, plus some water resistance.

In the final stage of fishing, when the rod is pointed almost vertically upward, but the fish is still in the water, it is not the tip (the whip) that experiences the maximum load, as many believe. This thinnest part of the rod works only in tension, stretching out almost in a straight line with the fishing line, and it is practically impossible to break.

And here top part the knee following the tip begins to be subjected to critical loads, since it cannot elastically deform further, because its walls are made quite thin to make the rod lighter. And finally, the fish is lifted above the water by the rod. The load is reduced to 0.5 kg (weight of the fish), but the rod is already in vertical position, and the upper knees are excessively tense.

Here the carp or perch makes a sharp swing of its tail and the rod breaks 10-15 cm from the upper end of the knee next to the tip. Why has the load increased? Try standing on a household bathroom scale. Let's say your mass is -70 kg. If you squat down sharply or swing one leg, the scales will jump to 95-100 kg, that is, 35-42% more than your weight. This is exactly what happened in our case.

such a load on any rod, especially a long one, when it is in a vertical position, guarantees breakage of its upper legs;
You cannot lift a fish, even a small one, above the water. This is fraught with a line break, and in the worst case, a rod breakage;
when fishing with long rods, use a landing net with a long handle;

when fishing, the butt of the rod should occupy a position of no more than 60° to the horizon (approximately at 11 o’clock on the dial - photo 1);
At the last stage of fishing, make sure that the length of the fishing line from the fish to the tip is not significantly less than the entire length of the rod. Otherwise, you risk breaking the rod when catching fish with your hand or in the landing net.

Now let's consider the second case. Strictly speaking, the “tulip” along with a short, 0.5-1 cm piece of the blank can break off during casting, but for this to happen, the line must be “tightly” wrapped around the end ring (photo 2), which sometimes actually happens when fishing with a spinning rod on “turntables” with thick monofilament or rigid “braid”. Well, neither the rod manufacturer nor the seller are to blame for this.

If you are fishing with spinners, and even in the current, be careful and do not cast until you are sure that the line passes freely through all the rings. To do this, simply pull it slightly index finger hand holding the rod to the reel.

Quite often, a similar breakdown occurs when retrieving an artificial bait with the rod lowered to the water, when at a high speed of reeling the spinner does not notice how the swivel of the rig (usually on a steel leash) “flies” into the “tulip” with all its might. This situation usually arises when fishing at dusk or simply by mouth fishing, especially when there have been no bites for a long time and the fisherman is distracted by looking at a seagull flying past or a young maiden bathing nearby.

In the last meters of retrieving the bait, it is better to slow down the reeling speed a little and raise the rod up a little. This way you can avoid not only hitting the “tulip”, but also an annoying snag;
lack of bite is not a reason for inattention. If you want to watch nature or anything else, put the tackle aside, resting the rod on a backpack (photo 3), stands or a chair;

Do not place the rod on the ground, especially on the sand. Dirt and grains of sand that get into the joints will irrevocably damage it, and a random passer-by or colleague who comes out of nowhere can step on the rod.

Very often the tip of a rod is broken, as is its butt part or knee (this is especially true for spinners and floaters who move from place to place in search of fish) during transportation. Moreover, both in working and folded for transportation positions. Carbon fiber is resistant to sharp impacts on hard objects (stones, parts of a metal or other rigid boat) and accidental force bends in a short section of the blank.

A very common phenomenon is a break in the upper leg of a spinning rod at the point of its contact (even in a soft case!) with the frame of the input ring closest to the reel. Usually this damage is not noticed, and the rod breaks on the first cast.

When moving from place to place along the shore, disassemble the fishing rod, if possible. As a last resort, carry it in working condition only with the butt forward - this way there is less chance of sticking the tip into the ground or into a tree (photo 4);

It is useful to additionally pad the places of possible contact with the guide rings of other legs of the rod with something soft; when transporting rods in a boat, place them with the butt part forward towards the bow of the boat, or better yet, disassemble them;
do not try yourself and do not allow others to “test the strength” of the tip of any “coal” rod by bending it over a short section - it can be broken like a match;
to transport fishing rods, it is best to use a hard tube in combination with a soft case so that the knees do not rub against each other (photo 5);

Do not lean fishing rods or parts thereof against a vehicle with the door open. A random gust of wind can slam it shut, and then you have to say goodbye to fishing (photo 6).

Calm, just calm. A good half of all rod breakages occur at the moment of landing a fish, and its size, and, accordingly, the resistance provided, oddly enough, are not of decisive importance. If the fish caught is small, which is usually noticeable immediately after hooking, most anglers recklessly pull it towards themselves, excitedly carrying the rod back behind their back and straining it excessively (photo 7).

Even a small fish in a moderate, or even more so, strong current can bend the rod in this position more than it can withstand, and then the likelihood of breakage is almost inevitable. Such developments of events are sometimes simply not taken into account when emotions rush over the edge, and composure rests somewhere in the corner of the mind. But, as they say, “Alexander the Great was a great commander, but why break stools?”

When landing large fish, many fishermen act much more cautiously, since the desire to get a solid trophy and present it to colleagues or family prevails over the desire to force events. But at the final stage of the struggle, when the stubborn fish is already beating its tail on the surface of the water, very close to the side of the boat or the shore, emotions overshadow everything and everyone, and only one thought rushes under the fisherman’s Panama hat: “If only there was a fishing line (carbine, hook, leash. ..) survived!”

For some reason, they completely forget about the rod in this situation (as well as the fact that you need to loosen the friction brake if you fish with a reel), only grabbing it simply by the form to make it easier to reach the fish with your hand or landing net. “Slow” rods can withstand such treatment, but “fast” ones don’t always.

Because the blank is designed for load along its entire length and, by intercepting the rod closer to the tip, we unnecessarily strain it, which can lead to breakage, especially when using a powerful “braid”, which, as is known, has very little stretch and does not absorb shock, dampening the jerks of the fish . Exactly the same actions are taken by fishermen when hooking; this is often the case with coastal spinning anglers (photo 8), who have to fish in less than ideal conditions.

By the way, about “dead” holds. I have not yet seen a single spinning angler who, having felt the hook of the bait on an underwater obstacle (and it is quite clearly felt on a modern rod, although there are pleasant exceptions in the form of catfish or overgrown pike perch), did not begin to pull the rod left and right in bewilderment.

And I, sinfully, make a couple of jerks, only after which I realize that this is not a fish, but a “dead thing.” The algorithm for further manipulations to save the bait has been repeatedly described in fishing literature, and, it would seem, is known to everyone, but.. An attempt to “rip out” a spoon or other bait with sharp jerks of an innocent fishing rod is obviously immortal, like the Sicilian mafia.

I hope it is unnecessary to remind you that such actions can damage not only the rod, but also the reel. However, if you do not value your gear and treat it as a consumable material for your pleasure, you don’t have to read the summary of this part of the article.

do not unnecessarily force the landing of fish if your gear is not designed for this;
reduce the friction brake actuation force if you fish with a reel on last stage fishing for large fish;
Try not to exceed the maximum permissible breaking load of the fishing line used, indicated on the rod. If it is not indicated, ask your sales consultant or experienced colleagues about it;
When fishing or on a “dead” hook, you cannot unnecessarily strain the rod by moving it back beyond the vertical, especially if it is “fast”.

Another incident awaits the fisherman when handling the fishing rod. This is jamming of the knees, and it can occur both with a plug-in connection and with a telescopic one. The main reasons for jamming are contamination of the joint and excessive force applied when assembling the rod to bring it into working position.

Accidental grains of sand or contamination of organic origin (fish scales, remnants of bait and bait, particles of algae) that got with water or during transportation are not given any importance; they proceed to assembly and tightly “plant” the knees.

After fishing, having received a non-separable rod and trying to disassemble it, most fishermen begin to twist the jammed knees with an addiction, pushing through the thin walls of the “telescope” or plug and “twisting” until a crack (and often a complete break) the form of the lower, usually the knee of a spinning or match rod at the joint.

Only The right way disassembling the plug joint of the knees in such a situation: by tightly clasping the knees with your hands (it is convenient to use rubber or similar gloves to prevent your hands from slipping) and helping with the force of both legs, you can separate even a strongly jammed joint. In approximately the same way, but only by holding your hands from inside your knees, you can fold the stubborn “telescope”.

Before and after fishing, carefully wipe the rod at the joints with a clean cloth. For rinsing, use only clean water with a small amount of some dishwashing detergent; Do not try to undo jammed elbows by turning them.

Such actions - Right way to breakdown; When transporting rods with a plug connection, like spinning rods, insert a sponge rubber or foam rubber plug into the mating hollow part of the joint (see photo 5). This will protect the joints from sand and dirt;

do not use organic solvents (especially automotive chemicals) when trying to undo jammed elbows - the varnish on the rod may partially dissolve and permanently glue the joint;
To facilitate assembly and disassembly of any fishing rod, use only branded special silicone-based compounds. They can be purchased at reputable fishing stores.

In conclusion, I would like to advise all colleagues with a passion for fishing, to treat the fishing rod like your favorite hunting rifle - with understanding and care. Then it will never let you down and will be a reliable assistant and faithful comrade.

How to repair a spinning rod with your own hands without going to specialized workshops? This question is asked by many fishing enthusiasts, since not all localities have such specialists, and the breakdowns themselves are minor, so you don’t want to spend extra money.

No one, even a seasoned fisherman, not to mention beginners, is immune from troubles while fishing. Perhaps the saddest thing that can happen on the shore is a rod breakage. Don't despair, any problem can be fixed. And if it is small, then it is quite possible to carry out the repair yourself at home.

When do spinning rod breakdowns occur?

Some fishermen, in particular beginners, tend to have a careless attitude towards gear. They do not think about the strength of materials and their durability, so they can overload the spinning rod or create uncharacteristic loads on it, which will lead to breakdown.

The most common situations that lead to questions about how to fix a broken spinning rod are:

Accidental impact on the side of the boat. A crack may appear in the blank, and at the next critical load the rod breaks.
Using lures that weigh more than the rod allows. As a result, the overloaded form will “fold” during a power cast. What is a spinning test?
When assembling and disassembling, some spinning anglers carelessly lean the fishing rod against the car door or lay it on the ground. The form may be accidentally stepped on or broken by closing the door.
Carrying the assembled spinning rod tip first. It can be accidentally “stuck” into the ground or into a tree trunk. After this, the rod tip usually breaks.

What minor breakdowns can you repair yourself?

How to fix a spinning rod with your own hands? Naturally, not every problem can be fixed at home. In case of serious damage, the rod must be given to skilled rodbuilders who specialize in repairing “rods” and assembling new ones. There are situations when someone who comes to Out of Service Nothing will help the fishing rod and it will have to be thrown away.

How to repair a broken spinning rod depends on the type of breakdown. Malfunctions that any angler can fix are:

Breakage of the tip of a spinning rod - breaking of no more than 10–15 cm of the tip.
Failure of rings and tulip - chips and scratches on the insert, fracture or deformation of the frame.
The cork handle becomes unusable - over time, the cork gets wet, becomes rotten and begins to crumble.

Even a beginner who has experience working with the tool and knowledge of modern materials can restore a fishing rod after these troubles.

This is the biggest problem and the most difficult to fix and keep the rod working. How to repair a spinning rod? The tip must be fused back to the form. This is only possible in rods with a hollow tip. Repairs are made as follows:

It is necessary to select a rod that will be installed inside and can connect both parts of the top. They may be sewing needle, metal or carbon rod of suitable diameter.

Both ends are cleaned of burrs and defects, then degreased with alcohol.
Lubricate the inner insert with epoxy glue and install it in the form, connecting the two parts of the upper leg of the rod.
Let the glue dry. For reliability, cover the joint with colorless varnish. You can apply a bandage made of strong threads to the former scrap.

It is worth noting that a repaired fishing rod can change its characteristics - action or test. Therefore, it is necessary to test the “stick” before a full trip to the shore of a river or lake.

How to repair a carbon spinning rod that has a solid tip? In this case, you will have to find and buy a new upper bend, since gluing the broken element to the form will not bring any result, and the tip will certainly break even from a small load.

Rod tulips or rings may require replacement due to failure. Most often, scratches and chips form on the inner insert, which lead to damage to the fishing line and cord. This reduces the strength of the equipment and can lead to breakage when throwing the bait forcefully or when landing a large fish.

How to repair a spinning rod by replacing the rings and tulip? This is done according to the following algorithm:

We select and buy the necessary set of access rings and a tulip.
We remove the old rings by heating their fastening with a candle or lighter.
The seats must be cleaned with finishing sandpaper and degreased with alcohol.
We install the ring and seat it with epoxy glue. We fix it on top by applying a bandage.
After the glue has hardened, cover the place where the ring is placed with colorless varnish.

It is important not to disturb the alignment when installing new rings. This will lead to a decrease in casting distance due to increased friction of the line against the ring inserts. In addition, this can disrupt the structure of the spinning rod and will create critical overloads in the place where the ring is incorrectly fastened when landing fish.

How to repair a spinning rod yourself if the cork handle becomes unusable. When the material begins to crumble, you cannot hesitate. You should immediately begin to correct the breakdown so as not to aggravate the situation:

Take a wine or champagne cork and finely rub it.
Mix the resulting shavings with PVA glue.
With the resulting thick mass we cover all defects and chips.
After the glue has dried, sand the handle with fine sandpaper.

The handle repaired in this way looks almost like new and is able to last a long time.

How to protect a spinning rod from damage?

There are certain rules for handling a spinning rod so that it lasts a long time and does not break at the wrong time:

The assembled fishing rod must be transported in a special hard case that protects it from impacts and breaks. A spinning tube allows you not only to transport your fishing rod, but also to safely store it at home.
You cannot carry the rod tip first. To prevent the spinning rod from breaking, it should be held with the tip facing backwards.
There is no need to put the fishing rod on the ground, because colleagues may accidentally step on it.
You cannot throw a spinning rod in a boat or on the shore so that it does not experience shock loads.
Periodically, the “stick” needs to be wiped, especially the internal inserts of the passage rings.
You cannot overload the spinning rod by exceeding the lure test.

Finally

Any fisherman should know how to repair a spinning rod with minor breakdowns. This will allow you to quickly return the equipment to working order and save on repairs from specialists. Although, it is better not to relax and always treat the rod with care, following the rules for handling it.

Breakdowns of spinning rods there are different ones. It depends on the degree and location of the breakdown whether it makes sense to produce rod repair, or not. Also, to a large extent, the feasibility of repair depends on the price of the rod. Sometimes it's easier to buy new if spinning not expensive than “getting dirty” with it repairs…

Yes, there are no problems with spinning rod repair, if the very tip at the base of the tulip breaks off, or, for example, the pass ring is damaged. It is clear that if the top of the tulip broke, carefully process the broken area and select a slightly larger tulip that is suitable in diameter - glue it onto the top. It happens that the old tulip can be attached to the broken top. To do this, heat the tube of the spinning tulip, take out a piece of the tip, and slightly sharpen the tip with a file or sandpaper. And if the diameter is suitable, then we plant the tulip in place, having first dropped glue (superglue, “Moment”, “Super Cement”, etc.) into the tulip tube.

Yes, the spinning rod will become a little different with the test, the test will increase a little (for example, it was 3-15g, it will become about 4-16g...), but in general, you can continue to fish, no problem!

If the spinning rod's pass ring broke, for example, the liner is cracked, then we simply remove the winding (melt the coating with a lighter and remove the braid). Be careful not to overheat and mechanically damage the spinning rod blank. We are looking for a ring of similar size on sale and installing it instead of the broken one. We also wind the ring to the spinning rod using a strong cord, glue the winding, you can also put a couple of turns of electrical tape on top, for reliability.

There are much more fatal breakdowns of spinning rods... One of the knees may break. So, if the rod is expensive, from a serious company, then you should find out whether the service is provided for selling one knee instead of a broken one, for relatively little money. I know that many serious manufacturers of spinning rods provide such a service.

There are also specialists and rod repairmen. Check with the major fishing outlets in your city; they should know their coordinates. Well, or ask experienced spinning colleagues about this topic.

In extreme cases, if you give it to repair tackle nowhere, then you can do some magic yourself... For example, pick up a certain fiberglass or carbon fiber rod, a piece of another old broken fishing rod and make the repair yourself, as shown in the pictures.

Carefully cut off the broken area. Insert a suitable insert onto the adhesive. We wrap the outside with electrical tape or something similar. You can try installing something like a coupling or casing on the outside in the form of a copper tube of suitable diameter. It all depends on your imagination and the materials available.

It is clear that the performance of the spinning rod will suffer, but if you really don’t have time to buy a new spinning rod, you can suffer for part of the season with such a repaired one...

Alternatively, if the lower, thick knee is broken, but the upper knee remains intact, then you can repurpose it. From the upper arm of a spinning rod you can make an excellent side fishing rod for fishing from a boat in a plumb line... We remove the lower ring on the arm and mount the rod in some kind of handle, for example, from an old broken rod, or even from the same one, by turning on the brains, sawing off a piece of the lower arm and making some seals...

And finally, the most fun thing is if rod breakage is that it cannot be repaired, roughly speaking - defects and breakage in several places, besides, the spinning rod is not expensive... Here you can either simply throw away the remains of the rod, or throw it somewhere in the closet to collect dust, or use spinning rod parts in completely different areas...

So, if we ignore spinning rods and remember the breakdowns of telescopic, rather long fishing rods, I was great at making folding handles for landing nets from their remains. You can make a release stick to rescue baits stuck in snags when fishing on small rivers. You can also adapt a fairly long piece of a telescopic fishing rod for knocking down apples and pears in the garden... Or even crown such a folding stick with a special shooter for the same fruits...

It’s also worth thinking three times before stupidly throwing away a broken spinning rod... It wouldn’t hurt to at least remove the rings, in case they come in handy to repair some spinning rod in the future... And perhaps saw off the handle, based on the same onboard fishing rods...

Well, completely original uses of the remains of broken spinning rods.

Once the handle of my mother’s umbrella got covered... I thought about it. I took the handle from an old broken spinning rod and sawed off a piece of the butt. It was great to put the new handle on the umbrella using glue! In addition to returning the umbrella to service, the cork handle turned out to be much more comfortable and pleasant to the touch than the original one.

There was another moment. In the summer I open the window and it constantly closes with a draft... This annoyed me for a long time. But I found a solution, again, using a piece of the same spinning rod. I cut off a piece of the upper knee, with several rings. I removed the liners from the rings and were left with purely thin iron bases. The ring was inserted into the gap at the junction of the half-frames of the window, and the end of the stick rested against the window frame. Everything is great. Now my window does not close spontaneously. In addition, you can adjust the degree of opening of the window by inserting either the far ring or the middle ring into the slot.