If we accept the figurative comparison of the outlines with a boot, then Matera really finds himself between his “heel” and “sole”.
Matera is the center of the southern Italian province of the same name, located near a small canyon, along the bottom of which the small river Gravina flows. The canyon, formed as a result of water erosion processes, is located on the Murdzha plateau - a limestone hill in which the Gravina River has formed other forms of karst relief - caves, funnels and gullies, which are found in abundance both around the city and right in it.
The place seems rather inhospitable: there are only limestone rocks around, there is practically no soil on them, which is why there are few trees. If there is vegetation here and there, it is thorny bushes clinging to the slopes of the canyon.
Oddly enough, since Paleolithic times people have settled in this inhospitable-looking canyon of the Murdzha plateau. Perhaps the first inhabitants of these places appreciated the inaccessibility of their favorite karst caves to enemies and predators. Traces of the life of Paleolithic-Neolithic people are still found in caves today.
It is known for sure that before the Greeks and Romans appeared on the territory of modern Matera, the Lucans lived here - people of one of the ancient Italian tribes, distinguished by their extreme belligerence: if they did not fight with their neighbors, they went to serve as mercenaries for the Macedonians.
It is not known exactly when the city appeared here: according to one version, it was founded by the Romans in the 111th century. BC e. IN ancient times it was called Mateola - a tribute to the ancient Roman consul Quintus Caecilius Metella of Numidia (circa 160-91 BC), who made a lot of efforts to protect the city: under his supervision the city was surrounded by high fortifications. This was necessary because Matera was located next to the Appian Way, and residents grew rich by reselling wheat and servicing passing merchants. Advantageous position had a downside: the city was plundered more than once during riots, and during the Second Punic War (218-202 BC) the Carthaginians completely destroyed it.
When the Western Roman Empire died during the invasion of the Gothic tribes, in the V-VI centuries. Matera was first under the rule of Byzantium, and in the Vll century. it was captured by the Lombards, and the city became part of the Duchy of Benevento - part of the Lombard kingdom.
In Vll-Vlll centuries. Temples carved into them appeared in the rocks, which were created by monks - Benedictines and Basilians. This happened even before Christianity split into Catholicism and Orthodoxy.
The era of the early Middle Ages is a series of endless feudal wars in the south of Italy. At the end of the Vlll century. Matera was captured by troops of the Frankish king Charles (7 42 (7 48-814), and in the 9th century - King Louis II of Italy (825-875). At the end of the 10th century, the townspeople barely managed to hold the city, besieged by the Saracens, when they tried to create a springboard in southern Italy for the capture of the entire peninsula. At the beginning of the 11th century, the city was captured by the Byzantines, and in 1043 by the Normans of Count William the Iron Hand (about 1010-1046).
Even during World War II, Matera remained a quiet province, shaken from time to time by earthquakes. But on September 21, 1943, on the eve of the entry of Anglo-American troops, Matera became the first city in Italy to rebel against the German occupiers.
STONE HIVE
Indeed, in Italy, if someone says about “pietra alveare” - a stone beehive, then those around them will understand without explanation that they are talking about Matera.
The historical center of Matera is called Sassi (in Italian “Stones”): it is a relatively small area of rhombic outlines with sides of about 500 m. Under the ancient Greeks, there was an ancient acropolis here, excavations of which are still ongoing today. But main feature The Sassi is that this part of Matera is carved out of the rock, for which it received the nickname La Citta Sotterania, or underground city. The city consists of many natural grottoes, catacombs, water reservoirs, arcades, residential buildings, churches and even palaces. All of them are either made of stone or carved directly into the rock, creating a unique natural-urban landscape. In some parts of the city, streets run along the roofs of houses.
The city authorities have figured out how to use the caves without harming them: an annual retrospective of modern sculpture by Grandi Mostre nei Sassi is held right in the cave complex of St. Nicholas.
The architects of antiquity paid special attention to the creation of rainwater reservoirs: raising water into the city from the river is not at all easy. The largest reservoir has survived to this day; it was nicknamed the “Long Diver” for its gigantic size: its walls reach a height of 15 m, and people navigate it underground by boat. Like other reservoirs in Matera, the Long Diver is designed to collect rainwater, from where it is distributed throughout the city.
Back in the first half of the twentieth century. it became clear that it was no longer possible to leave people in this ancient place, where people lived in premises built 9 thousand years ago. In addition, the area was constantly suffering from malaria, spread from the river and stagnant waters in ancient reservoirs. In the 1950s Most of Sassi's population was relocated to purpose-built modern areas to the west and north of the historical core of the city (many had to be forcibly relocated as they became accustomed to their caves). Since there is not enough money for the resettlement program, many residents of Matera still live in the rocks today - without any amenities. For many Smaterani, this situation is familiar: the poverty level here is very high, and the income of the population is the lowest in Italy.
Almost in the very center of Sassi stands a cathedral with a square bell tower 52 m high. This is the first above-ground church that belonged to the brotherhood of Christ the Flagellated. The cathedral was founded back in 1230, when Matera became the residence of the archbishop. Construction was completed only in the 1270s. King of Sicily Charles I of Anjou (1227-1285). At first, the cathedral was dedicated to St. Eustachius, the patron saint of the city. In 1318, the city authorities raised the status of the cathedral by “re-dedicating” it in honor of the Madonna della Bruna. The origin of the cult of this Madonna and the feast of Our Lady della Bruna are associated with the same time.
Every year on July 2 at five in the morning, the “Procession of the Shepherds” with a painting of the Mother of God takes place throughout the city. At noon, the townspeople march through Matera, accompanying the statue of the Madonna della Bruna, moving on a large papier-mâché cart drawn by mules. The cart is followed by the archbishop and the clergy, guarded by the “knights of della Bruna” in iron armor. At the end of the procession, the cart is left in Piazza Vittorio Veneta, the townspeople break it into pieces and take it home - happiness is in the hay.”
In 1993, Sassi - the "City of the Rocks" - along with its ancient rock temples and Byzantine-style frescoes, was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
ATTRACTIONS OF MATERA
Historical:
■ Historic center of Sassi (districts of Sasso Caveoso, Sasso Barisano and Civita, around 670).
■ Water reservoir Palombaro Lungo (“Long Diver”, 1st millennium BC).
Architectural:
■ Tramontano Castle (early 16th century).
■ Palace fir Sedile (1540).
■ Lanfranchi Palace (1668-1672).
■ Palazzo d'Anunziata (1735).
■ Fountain of Ferdinand (1832).
■ Villa Longo (XIX century).
Iconic:
■ Church of Lucia on Malva (VIII century).
■ Church of Our Lady of Virtue (IX century).
■ Church of St. Barbara (IX-X centuries),
■ Church of St. Peter Barisano (10th century).
■ Church of Our Lady Hodegetria (XII century).
■ Church of St. John (XII century).
■ Church of St. Francis of Assisi (XIII century).
■ Church of San Domenico (1230).
■ Cathedral Matera (1270).
■ Church of St. Clare (late 17th century).
■ Monastery of St. Augustine (1592).
Cultural:
■ Paleontological Museum.
■ Museum of Contemporary Sculpture MUSMA.
■ National Museum medieval and modern art.
■ National Museum of Domenico Ridola.
■ Archaeological excavations on Thimmari Hill.
Natural:
■ National Park Alta Murja plateau.
■ Historical natural and archaeological park of Murgia Matherana (Sasso, Murgia plateau, Gravina river gorge, 1990).
■ Nature reserve and Lake San Giuliano.
■ Thimmari Hill.
FUN FACTS
■ Matera is also the name of Middle Neolithic pottery found in moated ancient settlements and caves around the city of Matera and other places in southern Italy. This is dark, polished pottery in the form of goblets and jugs, with rectangular geometric designs scratched after firing and filled with red ochre. Tayuke matera is a dark, thin-walled dish painted with wide stripes of scarlet color.
■ Some researchers believe that Matera was founded by the ancient Greeks. As proof, they cite the old coat of arms of the city with the image of an ox and ears of wheat - a very common symbol of the Ancient One, found on coins. The image of a bull with three ears of wheat has been preserved on the city’s coat of arms to this day. The coat of arms bears the motto Bos Lassus Firmius Figit Pedem, which can be translated from Latin as “The ox is tired of pulling the yoke,” which reflects the events of centuries ago when the townspeople rebelled against taxes and intimidation by the feudal lords.
■ There is no consensus regarding the name of the city, which could come from mata (a pile of stones), meteoron (starry sky, since at night the Sassi cave houses, illuminated from the inside, resembled it), madre terra (Mother Earth), matterah (prison) or those terah ( clean water).
■ In the historical center of Sassi, many gardens were built, directly above the caves, which were used as cemeteries during the Renaissance. A paradoxical situation was created: people lived underground, and the dead were buried literally above their heads.
■ The houses are carved into limestone so that in summer sunlight fell vertically into a dwelling from above and did not heat up the room, and in winter it penetrated at an angle deeper into the grottoes and warmed them. In particular, this helped all year round maintain a fairly high temperature in cave houses.
■ Matera's water tanks are built in such a way that natural filtration of water occurs in them: stone cavities are cut in the shape of an inverted cone, solid particles settle in a narrow part of the sump, and water suitable for consumption is stored on the surface. Once or twice a year the tank was cleaned: a small child was lowered through the neck to scrape out the dirt.
■ The life of the inhabitants of Matera was extremely simply arranged due to the cramped conditions. As a rule, there was only one bed - wide and very high, up to 120 cm from the floor: it was warmer, and there was space under the bed for hay (livestock and poultry were kept in the next room) and firewood. The children slept in open dresser drawers. The table was small; mother and father sat at it, and the children ate standing up.
■ Electricity came to Matera only in the 1930s.
■ During the Second World War, Matera became famous for the exceptional courage of its citizens, who were the first in southern Italy to take up arms against Italian and German fascism. After the war, the city was awarded the state Silver Medal “For Military Valor - (Al valore militare) - as stated in the certificate, “for exceptional self-sacrifice.”
■ The unusual appearance of the city, evoking associations with the biblical description of Jerusalem, attracted outstanding film directors who filmed such famous films here feature films, like “The Gospel of Matthew” (Pier Paolo Pasolini, 1964), “Christ Stopped at Eboli” (Francesco Rosi, 1979), “King David” (Bruce Beresford, 1985), “The Passion of the Christ” ( Mel Gibson, 2004), “The Omen” (John Moore, 2006), “Ben-Hur” (Timur Bekmambetov, 2016).
In the southern part of Italy, in a province called Basilicata there is a small beautiful and ancient city, which few people know about. Matera has existed in the canyon of the Gravina River since prehistoric times (from Neolithic times). Due to the unique historical part of the city called "Sassi", Matera is also sometimes called the "Underground City".
It has been proven that people lived here as early as 9,000 years ago, but the official history of the city begins with the Romans, namely in the third century BC. The original name of the Roman village was Mateola. Historians believe that the name was probably given in honor of the Roman consul Lucius Caecilius Metellus.
In 664 AD, after the Lombards conquered the province of Matera, the city had many owners.
In the 9th and 10th centuries, Matera was constantly fought over by the Byzantine and German emperors, until William the Iron Hand began to rule it. At the beginning of the 17th century, the city's importance grew so much that it became the capital of the entire Basilicata region. Matera held this “position” until 1806, when the capital was moved to Potenza.
Matera also played an important role during World War II when she became the first Italian city, who began an active struggle against the Wehrmacht.
Probably the most interesting part of the city is its historical center- the old part of the city, which is called “Sassi di Matera”.
Sassi (meaning "stones") still has prehistoric houses built cavemen(troglodytes) who inhabited this region thousands of years ago. The village of Sassi is very similar to the dwellings in the village of Mellieha in northern Malta.
Since archaeological evidence shows that the first settlements primitive people existed here as early as 7000 BC, the "Sassi di Matera" is considered one of the first settlements in modern Italy.
These Sassi dwellings were painstakingly carved out of the limestone rocks. There were so many underground houses in some parts of this area that the streets were literally built on the “roofs” of the houses.
Due to a number of changes in government policy and due to a malaria epidemic threatening it in the 1950s, the Italian government decided to move the residents of Sassi to a newly built part of the city.
However, many people refused to move, so today Matera is the only place in the world where people can boast that they still live in the houses of their ancestors, in which they lived 9,000 years ago.
The Gravina River divides the city, built on rocks above ancient cave dwellings, into two parts. This feature led to the fact that water was very difficult to access for its inhabitants. This is why people started making huge tanks (known as "cisterns").
One of the largest water reservoirs is located under Piazza Vittorio Veneto. The height of its walls is as much as 15 meters and there are even boat tours inside it. As the population in Matera began to increase, many of the old "cisterns" were eventually converted into residential buildings.
Church of San Francesco d'Assisi.
Cave houses are not the only attraction in Matera. You can also find some very beautiful churches in this city. For example, the central cathedral of Matera, which is called Santa Maria Della Bruna, was built in 1389 and topped with a 52-meter bell tower.
The historic center of Matera still retains its original charm. Because of this, many directors choose this city as an ideal location for filming ancient Jerusalem.
Many films were filmed here biblical stories, such as The Gospel of Matthew directed by Pier Paolo Pasolini (1964), or Mel Gibson's The Passion of the Christ (2004). Today, Matera is a thriving town with many businesses, taverns and hotels, and its beauty literally captivates thousands of visitors every year.
It is also located in Italy. She is truly impressive!
I continue to introduce you to the most interesting places that I managed to see in the south of Italy.
Matera is a city in Basilicata in Italy, famous throughout the world for the historical quarters of the Sassi, where the listed cave houses are located world heritage UNESCO.
Matera is an ancient city; a settlement existed on this site in the Neolithic era, and even then the relationship with the rocks was very close.
The core of the city originated on the opposite slopes of a river valley called the Gravina di Matera cleft.
During Magna Graecia, Matera was Greek city, the center of which was Civita. Today the Cathedral, built in the 13th century, stands here.
In the Roman era, the city was fortified with a wall, and numerous grottoes and rocky massifs were used to build village dwellings, and thus the Sassi quarters were born.
The construction of houses in caves was due to climatic conditions and the need for protection, as well as to make better use of the natural and geographical capabilities of the place.
The streets of the cave city were narrow with many steps and ladders.
In 1623, Matera became the capital of Basilicata and remained so until 1806, then Napoleon Bonaparte moved the capital to Potenza. It was best period for Matera.
Locals experienced great difficulties with water. Therefore, they spent their energy not on building houses, but on digging channels and trenches in the limestone to collect water and a system of various cisterns.
After the Second World War, Carlo Levi’s book “Christ Stopped at Eboli” was published, in which Levi wrote about the unbearable living conditions in the Sassi di Matera.
He was exiled to the south of Italy for anti-fascist statements; when he arrived in Matera, he was horrified by what he saw. In the 1930s half the population lived in caves; due to the heat, many houses were open, dogs, sheep, goats and pigs lay on the floor. “Most families had only one cave, and everyone slept in it together - men, women, children and animals.”
Carlo Levi saw Matera at a time when the population had grown to size limits. There was not enough space and more floors were built over the caves. Hanging gardens and vegetable gardens were no longer planted, and huge families lived in unsanitary conditions, without sewerage, and without observing basic hygiene standards.
In 1952, the authorities decided to move residents to new quarters, vacating the cave houses. At that time, about 15 thousand people lived in Sassi. Many of them did not want to leave their homes and returned back, then the authorities walled up the entrances to the caves with cement.
In 1993, the Sassi di Matera (Sasso Caveoso, Sasso Barisano and Civita) was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
After the Sassi di Matera became uninhabited, they became the backdrop for many films. Pier Paolo Pasolini filmed “The Gospel According to Matthew” here in 1964, and Mel Gibson “The Passion of the Christ” in 2004.
The city has preserved grotto houses, some of which can be visited. In the middle of the room there is a high bed on which the whole family slept. Under the bed there is a pot, a trough and other utensils that were taken out during the day. There is also a stall for animals and a dining table. The kitchenette is in a separate small room, another room was used as a utility room.
Light came into the house from a small window upstairs. The temperature in the houses was almost constant 15 degrees, the tuff in which the houses were built worked as climate control.
Now the city is slowly being populated again; the state is allocating 40% of the amount for the renovation of the premises.
Souvenir workshops are open here.Until recently, the Sassi caves were inhabited by ordinary, and, moreover, the poorest (at home ancient man- not the most comfortable place to live), Italians - now most of them have moved to the new Matera, and Sassi is inhabited mainly by tourists. Thanks to the fantastic project Le Grotte della Civita, you can spend not only a day, but also a night, or even a week in the cave city: in the unconnected Sassi cave houses there are eighteen rooms with everything you need, and the public area of the unique hotel is located in a medieval church .
Both cave and above-ground churches of Sassi are interesting not only for their architecture, but also for their frescoes, many of which date back to the 11th-12th centuries.
Sources.
The small town of Craco, located in the province of Matera in southern Italy, is one of the amazing and unique historical places. This is a real ghost town that attracts travelers with its unique atmosphere and a touch of mystery. Once founded around 1060, this city overlooked picturesque green hills and cultivated fields.
Initially, the lands on which Craco was founded were the property of Archbishop Arnaldo, bishop of the commune of Tricarico. For for many years existence, this town was not famous for any outstanding events; it was the most ordinary agricultural center. TO end of the 19th century century, the population of Craco began to experience serious difficulties due to several lean years. Gradually, residents of the town began to emigrate to North America. Soon earthquakes, landslides, and the Second World War were added to the misfortunes experienced. world war. In the early 1960s, the city was completely deserted and to this day is gradually being destroyed, turning into historical ruins.
Dead City of Craco
Dead city Craco is located in southern Italy, in the Basilicata region of the province of Matera, approximately 25 miles inland from the Gulf of Taranto. This medieval town is typical of the area, with long hills and cultivated fields. The date of foundation of Craco is approximately 1060, when the land already belonged to Archbishop Arnaldo, Bishop of Tricarico, mainly church property.
This city had its existence due to agriculture, was founded in the 8th century by the Greeks. The city residents lived as they wanted, those who grew grapes, made mash from it, until a famous political figure visited it in the 12th century and established feudal power over it, and then the city began to be rebuilt.
The mayor introduced law and religion, a castle was built on the rock so that the landlord could not be captured. Gradually, 4 squares were rebuilt, in best years the population reached 1,500 thousand people.
By 1891, the population of Krako reached 2 thousand people, despite the fact that there were lean years, earthquakes, landslides, and at the same time war.
Craco was completely depleted by natural disasters, and in 1963 the remaining 1,800 inhabitants moved to a valley called Craco's Cave, and the original Craco is gradually destroyed where it stood for a thousand years.
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Dead city
The dead city of Craco is located in Italy. As of 1891, more than 2,000 people lived here. But due to the difficult conditions of agricultural labor, which took place among rocky and poor soils, a food crisis occurred here.
As a result, approximately 1,300 people immediately left the city and then moved to North America. People moved from Craco from 1892 until 1922. In addition, earthquakes and landslides, which were frequent in these areas, added to the food crisis.
In 1963, all remaining residents of the city were relocated to a nearby valley, which was called Krako Cave.
On at the moment the city stands in its former place, but there has been absolutely no one here for a long time.
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