IN lately We hear more and more often about skinheads. They are talked about on TV screens and described on the pages of newspapers and magazines. And in this a huge number It is very difficult to understand the information and find the real answer to the question “skinheads - who are they?” Are they dangerous to society? What are their main ones? Let’s try to answer these questions together today.
What is a subculture
Representatives of a certain youth subculture are teenagers who dress in their own way, listen to certain music, and have their own jargon. They have their own pattern of behavior. They always arise spontaneously and, most often, try to oppose themselves to the older generation.
Representatives of subcultures are not always aggressive, cruel, etc. The fact is that upon closer acquaintance with serious publications and books telling about skinheads, an understanding arises that the picture painted in our imagination by media representatives is very far from reality.
Skinheads are a subculture that arose spontaneously
The word “skinhead” itself came to us from English language. Translated, it means “bald head” (“skin head”). At first, Western youth became interested in this trend. Over time, teenagers from other countries also joined the movement, and eventually it spread throughout the world. Already in the sixties of the last century, everyone knew the subculture continues to exist to this day. It is worth noting that a subculture, as such, is neither an ideological nor a political organization. Only in rare cases can it be associated with any movement or party.
Russian skinheads
Today this subculture is very popular in our country. Skinheads first appeared in Russia in 1991. They became students of Moscow technical schools and vocational schools, teenagers living in the capital and Leningrad.
Are Russian skinheads different from Western skinheads? Who is this? Ordinary youth united spontaneously? Not really. Despite the fact that the economic crisis in our country was even worse than in England after the war, the skinhead movement in Russia did not appear naturally. Our teenagers are greatly influenced by Western mass culture. This precisely explains the fact that the offspring of ordinary mechanics and electricians sported suspenders and dockers’ boots from England.
Russian skinheads differ in some other ways. The subculture, which arose under the influence of the West, makes them shout about their people and country on foreign languages, waving American Confederate and German flags. True, this is done by representatives of one of the subspecies of this subculture - boneheads.
Skin directions
Like any other, this youth subculture has several directions. Skinheads are different. There are red skins that have their own website and even publish their own magazine, called “Blown Up Sky”. A separate direction is anti-fascist skins. Representatives of this movement even guarded concerts of rap artists, whom neo-Nazis consider their sworn enemies. This event is called skin security.
However, very little is said about the various directions of this subculture to almost anyone. Television announcers, journalists, publicists, everyone who likes to discuss the topic of fascism, neo-Nazism and racism, prefer not to mention the fact that there are anti-fascist skins. Therefore, in Russia (and in the West too) the most famous are boneheads.
Boneheads in Russia
So, everyone knows skinheads. Who is this and why are they being talked about in all the media? Their entire behavior and lifestyle are copied from Western models. They dress and look at life in the same way as their Western “brothers”, listen to the same music and prioritize the same life values. However, there is still a difference. Skinheads (boneheads) in Russia include not only the American Anglo-Saxon white-skinned people and European peoples, but also Slavic peoples(primarily Russians).
It is worth noting that Russian skinheads are seriously mistaken. The subculture in Europe is different from ours. In other countries, skinheads completely disagree with the idea that Russians can be classified as an Aryan nation. After all, for them we are “racially inferior.”
However, both Western and Russian boneheads are under the care of other, “adult” organizations. They are skillfully managed by representatives of the far-right and neo-Nazi movements.
Appearance
Every subculture has its own external differences. Skinheads, who are sometimes intimidated, are simply following certain traditions. This is what, by their standards, a real skin should look like:
- A real Aryan with blond hair, a straight thin nose and gray eyes. Of course, there may be slight deviations from the main type. For example, the eyes may be light brown or blue, or the hair may be slightly darker than light brown. However, the general background must be preserved.
- The head should be completely shaved or cut very short. Their hairstyles are not like those of bandits or policemen. A skinhead's hair is the same length all over his head. Bangs, strands, etc. are not allowed. The main purpose of this hairstyle is to prevent the enemy from grabbing your hair in a fight.
- Almost 100% of skinheads have a thin build. It is simply impossible to meet a representative of this subculture who is obese.
- Wear only functional clothing. First of all, skinheads are recognized by their high military boots. Preference is given to the famous "Grinders". These shoes serve as a kind of weapon. Sometimes they wear, but more often they prefer, black skinny jeans rolled up to their boots. The belts have heavy buckles. Some guys wear suspenders. The jackets are black, made of slippery fabric, without a collar.
- On a skinhead you will never see baubles, neck chains, or piercings. Even if a guy puts on a pendant in the form of a swastika, you should know that this is not a real representative of the skinhead subculture. In this form, he is no longer a fighter. Not to mention that it's hard to get into a fight when you have pierced ears, lips, nose, etc.
- A real skinhead does not drink, does not smoke and will never use drugs. Meanwhile, skins often decorate bare skulls and temples with aggressive tattoos
These are the main signs of a representative of this subculture. Something may vary, but in small, insignificant details.
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Skinheads, colloquial. skins (English skinheads, from skin - skin and head - head) - a collective name for representatives of the youth subculture, as well as several of its branches. The first mentions of skinheads in the press and music were found in England in the late 60s of the 20th century. One of the first names of the subculture was "Hard Mods". Skinheads of the 60s had common features style with the mod subculture, as well as with the Jamaican rudboys.
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The appearance of skinheads largely replicates the appearance of mods: Fred Perry and Ben Sherman polos and sweaters, Levi's jeans, a classic Crombie coat and Dr. Martens boots, but besides this it also has its own characteristics. To the basic appearance were added: plaid shirts, denim jackets, thin suspenders and rolled-up jeans (the latter have become a kind of “ business card"style). Long mod jackets are gone. Appearance
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Jamaican music arrived in England with the first immigrants from Jamaica in the early 1960s. New music from the former British colony gave preference to fashion, which was later adopted by skinheads. In the late 70s and early 80s, Oi music became popular! - further development punk rock. Music
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Symbolism 1. Celtic cross 2. Odal 3. Aryan fist 4. Iron cross 5. Zig 6. Death's head
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The Celtic cross is an equal-beam cross with a circle. It is a characteristic symbol of Celtic Christianity, although it has more ancient pagan roots. In the 80s of the 20th century, the Celtic cross became a symbol of White Power - the movement of white racists and NS skinheads. Odal (ᛟ) (Old German Oþila - “legacy”, Anglo-Saxon Oeþel) - 24th rune of Old Germanic and 23rd rune of Anglo-Saxon runic alphabets. The Odal rune is depicted on the emblem of the 7th SS Volunteer Mountain Division "Prinz Eugen", the 23rd SS Volunteer Panzergrenadier Division "Nederland" and on the flag of the Croatian Volksdeutsche. The Iron Cross is a Prussian and German military award. Established by Frederick William III on March 10, 1813 for military distinction in the war for the liberation of Germany from Napoleon. The death's head is a symbol of death and at the same time fearlessness in the face of it in the form of a skull and crossbones (usually white or silver on a black background). This symbol is also used by some modern neo-Nazi organizations, such as Combat 18.
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Various directions movements Traditional Skinheads - arose as a reaction to the emergence of pro-political offshoots from the original subculture. They follow the image of the first skinheads - devotion to the subculture, memory of roots (family, working class), apoliticality. The unofficial slogan is "Remember the Spirit of 69", as it is believed that in 1969 the skinhead movement was at its peak. Closely associated with ska and reggae music, as well as modern music Oi!. R.A.S.H. (eng. Red & Anarchist Skinheads) - “Reds” and anarchist skinheads who inherited the ideas of socialism, communism, and anarchism from the “native” working class. Pro-political movement.
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Hardcore skinheads are an offshoot of skinheads that are primarily associated with the hardcore scene rather than Oi! and ska. Hardcore skinheads became common at the end of the first wave of hardcore. They preserved the ideas of their predecessors and had no racial prejudices. S.H.A.R.P. (eng. Skinheads Against Racial Prejudices) - “Skinheads against racial prejudices.” They appeared in America in the 1980s as a reaction to the stereotype that arose in the media that all skinheads were Nazis. They gave TV and radio interviews where they talked about true values and ideas of the skinhead movement. They used force against NS skinheads.
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NS skinheads (English White Power skinheads or English National Socialist skinheads) - appeared in England in the first half of the 70s. They adhere to right-wing ideologies, nationalists or racists, some advocate the idea of racial separatism and white supremacy (so-called White Power). Due to the fact that racist views contradict the original spirit of the movement, other representatives of the subculture insultingly call NS skinheads boneheads.
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We will talk specifically about NS skinheads, of whom there are quite a lot in our country. NS skinheads position themselves as a national liberation movement and fight for the ideas of white supremacy, Aryan race, while striving for racial separatism. NS skinheads are extreme racists, anti-Semites and xenophobes, opponents of illegal immigration, mixed marriages and sexual deviations, especially homosexuality. The subject of hostility in Russia is blacks and Asians, as well as people from Transcaucasia and Central Asia, less often - to natives North Caucasus and Volga region.
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NS skinheads consider themselves defenders of the interests of the working class, in some cases citing the fact that newcomers occupy jobs. This point is far from the most important in the ideology of neo-Nazis in general, and in particular of NS skinheads, gradually disappearing, just as it was in the NSDAP, where the socialist part of the ideology gradually faded into the background and later completely lost its significance. As participants in right-wing radical movements, NS skinheads are supporters of extreme measures using violence (usually in a particularly brutal form), which is usually interpreted as extremism. Many of them are close to the idea of revolution, that is, a coup d'etat with the aim of establishing a national socialist regime.
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Russian skinheads A peculiarity of Russian skins is their love for the flag of the slaveholding Confederacy during the War between North and South in the United States, usually sewn on the sleeve or, if the patch is large, on the back of the jacket. Badges in the form of a swastika, a portrait of Hitler, the number 88 (that is, “Heit Hitler!”) or the letters WP (“White Power”) are also in use. They do not carry weapons with them, but in fights they use belts with a weighted buckle, wrapped around their hands. The Last Squeak skin fashion - decorate a belt with a supposedly decorative chain (in fact, the chain makes this improvised brass knuckles more dangerous)
Very often on the streets you can meet young people calling themselves skinheads. The word “skinhead” can be divided into two English “skin head” and is translated as “shaved head”. Compared to other informal movements, representatives of this subculture have the most complex and developed ideology.
Unfortunately, modern young people have lost the true purpose that the founders of this culture had. And nowadays, most skinheads adhere to rigid racist views, often fixated on fascism and nationalism. Although, there are also groups that adhere to a more peaceful, anti-fascist ideology.
Here is a list of existing directions of this movement:
- traditional skinheads - appeared in response to deviations from the original skin culture; they take the founders of this movement as an example. Traditional skinheads listen to music in the style of ska, reggae, rocksteady (all other styles prefer rock and patriotic music);
- S.H.A.R.P. - Skinhead Against Racial Prejudices - this direction is against racial prejudice;
- R.A.S.H. - Red & Anarchist Skinheads – these representatives support the ideas of socialism, communism and anarchism;
- NS-skinheads - Nazi-skinheads / Boneheads - Boneheads (also called right-wing skinheads) - preach National Socialist ideas, right-wing and far-right views on politics and other values;
- Straight edge skinheads - sXe Skinheads - people who believe that they are bad habits Just like drinking alcohol, smoking and drug addiction are bad. This group for healthy image life.
What do skinheads look like?
1. Distinctive signs of skinheads:
- “Celtic cross” (an image of a cross placed in a circle);
- classic German swastika;
- skull and crossbones.
2. Skinhead clothing. Preference is given to the military style - everything to make it comfortable to move. Boots are also usually military boots with thick soles. Since we started talking about shoes, I’ll note that the color of the laces is of no small importance. By the laces you can determine whether you belong to one direction or another.
3. Skinhead hairstyles. As you probably already guessed, this is a clean-shaven head, but simply a very short haircut is also allowed.
4. Skinhead tattoos. The themes of tattoos are very diverse. 
These can be inscriptions and abbreviations, as well as ordinary patterns. Some people put tattoos on their body in the form fascist swastika or any other drawings with a racist-Nazi theme.
Skinhead ideology
Most skinheads are racists and nationalists, and everything that follows from this is their main ideology: love for representatives of their nation, their culture and hatred for others.
Well, in the end I will answer the question “how to become a skinhead?” If you are close in spirit to the ideology of skins, then feel free to change your image and look for similar friends. Just never forget that all your actions must be legal.
Skinhead (from English skinhead - shaved head) - a special trend in fashion that arose thanks to the emergence of a subculture of the same name among working-class London youth in the 60s of the twentieth century and then spread throughout the world. Closely related to musical styles, such as ska, reggae and street punk (aka Oi!). Some of the representatives of this subculture grew up from their environment, others experienced significant influence West Indian ore-boys.
Initially, this movement was famous for its apolitical nature and was focused only on fashion, music and a certain lifestyle. However, over time, some of the skinheads became involved in politics and joined various extreme movements, both left and right, as a result of which neo-Nazi and anarchist movements separated from the traditional skinheads who remained true to their ideals.
Story
At the end of the 50s of the twentieth century, Great Britain was gripped by a real economic boom, which, despite all the existing restrictions, significantly increased the level of income of young people from the working class. Some of the young people preferred to spend all their money on new clothes, for which they received the nickname - mods. Their subculture was characterized by a special affinity for fashion, music and scooters. It was the mods, or rather their offshoot, the so-called hard mods, who were the first to wear work or army boots, straight or sta-prest, with buttons and suspenders. Unlike their more “refined” counterparts, these mods took particular pride in emphasizing their working-class affiliation, cutting their hair much shorter and not averse to fighting. Hard fashion finally developed into a separate movement around 1968 and around the same time they received a new nickname - skinheads.
Skinheads still retained some features of the previous mods, but they were greatly influenced by the style of the rud boys - immigrants from Jamaica who settled in England. Along with their behavior and some style features, skinheads borrowed from them a love for ska, rocksteady and early reggae. The latter was so popular in this environment that sellers even began to add the prefix “skinhead” to the word reggae in order to increase record sales.
The skinhead subculture was finally formed by 1969. By this time, skinheads had become so popular that the band Slade even used their appearance as an example for their stage image. Skinheads became even more popular thanks to Richard Allen's novels Skinhead and Skinhead Escapes, which featured plenty of sex scenes and fights.
However, by the beginning of the 70s, the former popularity of skinheads began to decline. Many of the representatives of this trend moved to other groups and began to call themselves in a new way: suedeheads, smoothies or bootboys. Previous trends that were once characteristic of mods, such as brogues, suits, slacks and sweaters, have returned to fashion.
At the end of the 70s, the skinhead subculture was resurrected again, thanks to the emerging punk movement. Around the same time, for the first time in the history of this subculture, some skinhead groups became involved in politics, and began to adhere to far-right movements such as the National Front and the British Movement.
Since 1979, the number of skinheads has increased significantly. One of the most favorite pastimes of these young people was fighting on football matches. However, despite this, among them there were still those who were guided by the previous style. One way or another, such behavior attracted widespread attention from the press. Skinheads, like fashion once upon a time, have become a new threat to society.
Ultimately, the skinhead subculture went far beyond Britain and continental Europe, appearing in Australia and the USA, but with its own local specifics.
Style
Traditional skinheads take as a basis the style of the original subculture that arose in the 60s of the twentieth century.
The Oi! skinhead movement was heavily influenced by 70s punk culture, so their appearance is somewhat different. They usually have more short hair, taller shoes and skinnier jeans. Tattoos have become popular among skinheads at least since the “revival” of the movement in the 70s. In the 1980s in the UK you might even find skinheads with tattoos on their foreheads or faces, although this practice is no longer as common. American skinheads preferred to adhere to the hardcore style, and this is one of their territorial features.
- Hair
Most skinheads cut their hair with a razor with a No. 2 (sometimes No. 3) attachment. Thus, the hairstyle was short and neat, but the head did not appear completely bald. However, over time, hair length became shorter and shorter, and by the 80s, some representatives shaved their hair “clean up”. Among skinheads, it is usually not customary to wear a mustache and beard, but sideburns are extremely popular, and they are always carefully maintained.
As for girls, in the 60s most of them continued to adhere to the mod style, however, starting from the 80s, the Chelsea haircut became especially popular, when the hair on the top of the head was shaved very short, leaving the back, temples and bangs long. Some girls preferred a more punk version, leaving only their bangs and temples long.
- Clothing and accessories
First of all, skinheads have always been famous for their button-down shirts, short or long sleeves, and polo shirts. Favorite brands include Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Brutus, Warrior or Jaytex. Also popular are shirts or Everlast, shirts with button-down collars, V-neck sweaters or similar sleeveless vests, as well as cardigans and T-shirts. Some skinheads targeting Oi! or the hardcore scene wore plain white shirts. This style was especially common in North America. The most popular jackets were harringtons, bombers, denim jackets (usually blue, sometimes decorated with light spots using bleach), dunk jackets, crombie coats, parkas and much more. Traditional skinheads sometimes wore costumes made from a special fabric (a shiny material resembling shag, the color of which shimmered depending on the angle and light).
Many of the skinheads preferred Sta-Prest trousers or jeans, mostly brands , or . Typically, the trouser legs were rolled up to emphasize the beauty of high boots or open if the legs were wearing moccasins or brogues at the time. Sometimes the jeans were also decorated with bleach stains. This style was especially popular among Oi! skinheads.
The girls wore almost everything the same, and in addition mini-, fishnet stockings or short skirt suits with ¾-length sleeves.
Most skinheads wore suspenders that were no more than one inch wide. Wider suspenders may be associated with the far-right neo-fascist wing of White Power skinheads. Traditionally, suspenders are crossed at the back, however some Oi! oriented skinheads don't do this. Traditional skinheads wear black or white suspenders, sometimes decorated with vertical stripes. Often, due to the color of this accessory, skinheads determine the group to which its owner belongs.
The most common headdresses among skinheads were: pork-pie hat, felt hats, caps, woolen winter hats (without a tassel). A less common option were bowler hats. They were mainly preferred by iceheads and fans cult film"A Clockwork Orange"
Traditional skinheads also often wore silk in the breast pocket of their crombie coat or in the pocket of a suit made of their favorite iridescent material. Often a given piece of fabric was chosen in a contrasting color. Sometimes it was wrapped around a small cardboard so that it looked like a neatly folded handkerchief from the outside. Among skinheads, it was customary to choose colors that corresponded to their favorite football club. Sometimes wool or silk scarves with the symbols of their favorite team were wrapped around the neck, wrist or belt loop.
Some iceheads carried canes, which is why they received another nickname: brolly boys (from the English brolly - umbrella).
- Shoes
Initially, skinheads wore simple military boots from army supplies. Later, Dr. brand work boots became popular in this environment. Martens, especially cherry colored ones. Them skinheads 
they polished them to a shine and always made sure that their favorite shoes looked neat. In addition, skinheads wore brogues, moccasins and low Dr. boots. Martens. During the 60s of the twentieth century, Dr. high boots became especially popular. Martens with steel toes hidden under the leather, which turned out to be quite appropriate in street fights. IN recent years skinheads switched to other brands of shoes such as Solovair or Tredair because Dr. Martens are no longer produced in England. Gradually, sports shoes of the brands or Gola became fashionable among skinheads, in which they were comfortable to attend football matches.
Girls usually wore the same shoes as boys, and in addition, the so-called monkey boots. The brand of choice for this model has long been Grafters, but today the same boots are made by Dr. Martens and Solovair.
For a time, skinheads preferred to wear boots painted in the colors of their favorite club, but over time, the color of the shoes, like the suspenders, began to carry symbolic meaning.
Today skinheads are a subculture of nationalists. The irony is that in the distant 1960s, the non-white population of England largely shaped the tastes and attributes of future neo-fascists, and the war was fought on a completely different front. Initially, skinheads, representatives of the proletariat, opposed themselves to the fashion, the polished youth of the wealthy middle class. But they were friends with the ore boys - young emigrants from Jamaica, which at that time suffered from unemployment. Migrants from the island naturally rushed to the former metropolis to earn money. And, it would seem, the wave of migration should have caused a surge in aggressiveness on the part of the indigenous population, but the ore fighters and skinheads became friends on the basis of common social isolation, and they often worked in the same factories. That is, initially the conflict existed not on a racial, but on an economic plane. Young skinheads adopted the basic elements from the rud-boys appearance and musical tastes. His idol was, for example, Desmond Decker, a popular ska and reggae performer at the time, and later the well-known Bob Marley. Moreover, the wide distribution of native Jamaican musical motifs is largely explained by their popularity among skinheads, who have made reggae and ska part of their culture.
Excerpt from “You’ll Never Be 16 Again” by Peter Everett: “Soon you couldn’t go to a black guy’s party without finding a group of skinheads there. But, surprisingly, there was not the slightest disagreement based on racial and cultural differences. White and black youth have never been as close as during the birth of the skinhead movement. Skinheads copied our gait, manner of dressing, speaking, and dancing. They hung out with our girls, smoked our weed, ate our food and bought our records."
What they looked like
Short haircuts
It is not easy to clearly distinguish between the styles of rud-boys and skinheads of the 1960s; in those days, the attributes of both subcultures were closely intertwined. Skinheads, for example, adopted the fashion for short haircuts from their Jamaican friends, but this hairstyle also had a purely practical meaning. The absence of luxuriant hair protected from dust, dirt and lice, which were inevitable when working in factories, factories and mines. Skinheads began shaving their heads only in the 1970s, and initially they wore a short crew cut. Girls sometimes left bangs and locks on the sides, and cut the back of their heads short, just like boys. This haircut distinguished skinheads and rud-boys from mods who preferred long hairstyles.
Suspender
Suspenders are another integral attribute of skinheads, borrowed from the rud boys. Their width, as a rule, did not exceed two and a half centimeters.
Jeans
What is noteworthy is not the jeans themselves, but the way the skinheads wore them: at the waist (suspenders helped) and rolled up almost to the middle of the ankle so as not to get dirty. Among the manufacturers, Levi's, Lee and Wrangler were held in high esteem.
Army boots
Almost all photographs of the 1960s show skinheads wearing heavy combat boots. The choice fell on these shoes not because they were more painful to hit, but because the military uniform was cheap. For the same reason, many skinheads preferred camouflage jackets and pants. Boots Dr. Martens, as the most plausible imitation of military shoes, became popular later.
Shirts and polos
Check, the favorite print of all the British, was used by many brands of the time. The Ben Sherman brand was in demand among skinheads. Polo, in turn, was first worn not for playing tennis. Fred Perry became a classic. According to one version, the reason is in the logo, laurel wreath, symbolizing victory since antiquity.
Cardigans and V-neck sweaters
Nowadays you won't see a skinhead wearing a cardigan or a V-neck sweater, but thirty-five years ago this was par for the course.
crombie coat
The most desired item for a skinhead was a crombie coat. Coats of a straight silhouette with shoulder pads and lapels were also worn by fashion, but unlike wealthy youth, guys working in factories could rarely afford to buy an unworn new thing. The way they wore it was also different: skinheads looked casual in crombies. Also common were jeans, bombers, harringtons, overalls, and sometimes parkas and trench coats.
From rebels to neo-Nazis
The skinhead movement finally took shape in the late 1960s. It was then that the press first began writing about him. These were mostly notes about small fights: first about battles for territory, in the 1970s - about football fights. But there was no emphasis on race. Skinheads beat mods, teddies, hippies, students, but not blacks.
The transformation into the image we know today began with the first waves of Asian migrants in the 1970s. While the African and Jamaican populations were able to adapt, people from India and Pakistan did not find love among the “second wave” of skinheads. Their culture was too far from European, so they were much more to a greater extent, rather than African Americans, were perceived as outsiders. The skinhead movement became massive, and in the wake of dislike for the Asian population, it also became politically active. The British nationalist party, the National Front, also contributed to the change in thinking. In the second half of the 1970s, it actively recruited aggressive skinheads into its ranks. The slogan "Keep Britain White" was used for the first time. music group Skrewdriver, who considered herself a skinhead, announced her neo-Nazi views at the “Rock Against Communism” concert, and in the popular British program Donahuue show, a skinhead was identified with a racist for the first time.
Shaven-headed guys in high boots, rolled up jeans, thin suspenders and buttoned-up polo shirts finally began to be associated with fascism and xenophobia with the coming to power of Margaret Thatcher. As a result of her internal economic policy Mines and factories were closed en masse, entire sectors of the economy were abolished. Unemployment has increased enormously, leading to a fierce struggle for jobs. From this moment, the movement of NS skinheads (National Socialist skinheads) began, who believed that emigrants were taking away their jobs. As a result, Nazi sentiments prevailed among skinheads, and the original principles and ideals were forgotten.
Despite such a sad end, true tolerance towards representatives of other cultures is worth learning from the “first wave” of skinheads. To those who are in modern world considered the embodiment of racial intolerance, aggression and extremism, in the 1960s the idea of hating someone for their external differences could not have occurred to them. The same cannot be said about their followers, or indeed about most people today.