Instructions
One of the oldest, but still popular subcultures is hippies. They preach freedom in all forms (from inner freedom to free love), pacifism, and strive for independence and creative realization. They look bright in appearance, wear jeans, loose T-shirts, and vests. Both women and men wear long hair, bright baubles on the hands. They can leave home and travel with almost no means of support; in the summer they live in tent cities.
Similar to hippies and close to them in philosophy are Rastafarians or Rastafarians. Modern Rastafarians, especially in Russia, do not live according to the principles that the Rastafarians originally promoted. They just listen to reggae music, love Bob Marley, have dreadlocks, wear a red, yellow and green hat and have a negative attitude towards subservient material values Western culture.
Emo culture is popular among younger people. The name of the culture is derived from the word “emotional” and reflects the emotionality of the adherents of this movement. Adherents of the subculture are called emokids. They have a bright appearance: long side bangs, heavily lined eyes, piercings, black and pink clothes, black nail polish, a lot of bracelets and badges. They strive for self-expression, but are often perceived as vulnerable, depressed, whiny teenagers. It is also believed that these guys are prone to suicidal behavior.
Young people who love life and at the same time constantly risk it because of the pleasure they receive are called extreme people. This includes various areas of extreme sports: roller skaters, parkour or tracers, skateboarders, etc. Even graffiti artists who risk being caught can also be classified in this group. Their clothing style is usually sporty, free, and may resemble that of a rapper.
The philosophy is close to one rather old subculture - punks. Their slogan that there is no future determined their position: nothing can be corrected, and therefore life can be given up. It won’t be difficult to recognize a punk in a crowd - a mohawk on a cropped head, torn and dirty clothes. They often gather for parties with huge amounts of alcohol, drugs and fights. Initially, the movement was born out of a love for punk music.
The Goths have quite a lot in common with punks. At first this one developed due to a passion for gothic music, but then its own appeared. They perceive themselves as opponents of bad taste, motleyness and mass consciousness, and therefore choose black in clothing, the symbolism of death as a reminder of life, and going to the cemetery with friends. Outwardly, they are often confused with Satanists, who are dangerous to society because they support violence against people and sacrifices.
Another subculture is considered dangerous to society - skinheads. Already from their name you can understand that the feature is a shaved head. They preach the cult of a strong personality, the ideas of National Socialism and anti-Semitism. They hate adherents of other “bright” subcultures: emo, hippies, majors, as well as people of non-European type, and beat them. Most often, the head of such a youth group is a mature person with pro-fascist views.
Another similar group, but without an ideology as such, is. Usually these are guys from the outskirts of the city, engaged in petty robberies, thefts, hooliganism, etc. These are disadvantaged representatives who use slang words and vocabulary in their speech, and imitate persons who served sentences in. Appearance usually unkempt: tracksuit, black leather, cap. They are aggressive towards people oriented towards Western principles of life.
A brief overview of the main of these trends presents us with the following picture:
Alternatives are a youth subculture that emerged in the early 1980s and was subsequently brought to Russia in the 1990s. It was formed by mixing metalheads, punks and rappers. The success of alternative music was ensured by groups such as Nirvana, Korn and Limp Bizkit. Popular themes for song lyrics include calls for political literacy and anti-fascism. However, the lyrics can talk about wild parties, love, violence, drugs.
The appearance of representatives of this subculture greatly depends on their age and communication environment. The most common thing today is black hair covering the ears, black clothes, sneakers (mostly skater ones), facial piercings, tunnels, dreadlocks, tattoos. In this environment they often use drugs, alcohol and engage in extreme sports.
Gomty are representatives of a youth subculture that emerged in the late 70s of the 20th century in the wake of post-punk. They appeared in Russia in 1990. The gothic subculture is very diverse and heterogeneous, but to one degree or another it is characterized by the following features: a gloomy image, interest in mysticism and esotericism, love of gothic music. Initially, fans of gothic music were called goths, but later the subculture spread to literature, cinema, and painting. And yet, the main role in this subculture is played by a unique worldview, a special perception of the surrounding world, death as a fetish, which can be considered one of the signs of belonging to the Goths. But do not forget that gothic appeared thanks to music, and to this day, it is the main unifying factor for all goths.
Goths have their own recognizable image, which is Lately has undergone significant changes. No matter how Gothic develops, two unchanged basic elements remain: the predominant black color of clothing (sometimes with elements of other colors), as well as exclusively silver jewelry - gold is not used in principle, since it is regarded as a symbol of ordinary, hackneyed values, as well as the color of the sun ( silver is the color of the moon).
Hairstyle also plays a very important role in the image of goths of both sexes. It can be just straight long hair, or it can be lifted with gel or collected in large buns. Iroquois are occasionally seen. Hair is often dyed black, red, purple and white; it is also possible to dye it with strands of one color against the background of another. Make-up remains one of the main signs of belonging to the subculture: a dense layer of white powder on the face, black eyeliner and lips.
Metallimstas (metalhamds or metamlers) are a youth subculture inspired by metal music that appeared in Russia in the 1980s.
The metal subculture is devoid of a clearly defined ideology and is focused mainly around music. The lyrics of metal bands promote independence, self-reliance and self-confidence, the cult of a “strong personality”. Attitudes towards religion vary, but it is traditionally believed that metalheads are not religious.
Appearance of metalheads: long hair for men, leather jacket - leather jacket, leather vest, black T-shirts or hoodies with the logo of their favorite metal band, wristbands - leather bracelets, heavy shoes - camelots, grinders, short boots with Cossack chains, jeans (usually blue or black), leather pants, chains attached to the belt.
Punks are a youth subculture that emerged in the mid-70s in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia; in Russia, this subculture appeared a little later, in the 1980s.
Punks adhere to different political views, but for the most part they are adherents of socially oriented ideologies and progressivism. Punks are characterized by a desire for personal freedom and independence, the principles of “not selling out”, “relying on yourself”.
Rockers appeared as a subculture in the fifties and early sixties during the era of rock and roll, representatives of the music and style of which were Chuck Barry and the early Elvis Presley.
Rockers wear leather motorcycle jackets, abundantly decorated with buttons, patches, stripes and pins. They often wear quite fashionable leather caps on their heads. They usually ride a motorcycle wearing an open-face helmet. Every rocker's wardrobe includes jeans. leather pants, high-top motorcycle boots, military t-shirts and boots.
Another side of rocker culture is the abuse of alcohol, drugs, and cigarettes.
Hip-hop culture. Hip-hoppers have been rooted in the Russian youth environment for quite a long time. Hip-hop music consists of two main elements: rap (rhythmic recitative with clearly defined rhymes) and the rhythm set by the DJ, although compositions without vocals are not uncommon. On stage, musicians are often accompanied by a dance ensemble. Currently, hip-hop is one of the most commercially successful forms of modern entertainment music.
Style of hip-hop fans: most wear tube jeans and tight shirts or sports T-shirts, jewelry, stylized in rap culture. Cloth large sizes welcome. Hats, “baseball caps” turned backwards, backpacks to the waist, chains, sports jackets, T-shirts are the obligatory attributes of representatives of this subculture.
Youth who are part of this subculture can be classified as quite specific and extraordinary. Hip-hop fashion will continue to influence the next younger generations of consumers, and artists and their fans will find new ways to develop the subculture.
Emo is a youth subculture formed on the basis of fans of the musical style of the same name. Like most modern subcultures, emo originated in the United States in the mid-80s. In Russia, this subculture became known only at the beginning of the 21st century.
Expression of emotions is the main rule for those who consider themselves to be part of the emo subculture. They are distinguished by: self-expression, opposition to injustice, a special, sensual perception of the world. Often an emotional and depressed person. He stands out from the crowd with his bright appearance, looks for like-minded people and dreams of happy love.
Emo is characterized by a fundamentally infantile view of the world, introversion, and an emphasis on internal experiences, based on the aesthetics of beauty.
The traditional emo hairstyle is considered to be oblique, torn bangs to the tip of the nose, covering one eye, and behind short hair, sticking out in different directions. Preference is given to coarse, straight black hair. Girls can have childish, funny hairstyles. To create these emo hairstyles, they use cans of fixing hairspray. Emos often pierce their ears or make tunnels. In addition, an emo may have piercings on her face (for example, in the lips and left nostril, eyebrows, bridge of the nose). The eyes are heavily lined with pencil or mascara, making them look like a bright spot on the face. Nails are covered with black varnish.
Emos wear pink and black clothing with two-tone patterns and stylized badges. The main colors in clothing are black and pink (purple), although other shockingly bright combinations are considered acceptable. The most typical clothes for them are skinny jeans, sneakers with bright or black laces, a black or pink belt, and a checkered scarf around the neck.
Football fans. A group close to criminal subcultures are fans of football teams. Communities of football fans are one of the most common forms of subcultural youth activity in modern Russia, which has a long origin. Many forms of support for teams by their fans developed back in the 1930s, when football was amateur in the full sense of the word and football players worked in labor collectives (in other words, among their fans). Later, as football professionalized in Russia, the modern practice of organized fan trips to support the team at games in other cities arose (for example, fans of the Moscow football team Dynamo date the first such trip to a game in another city to 1976). In these forms of amateur activity, the fan community is autonomous from the supported team.
The specificity of this subcultural form is that identification is situational, which requires a minimum of effort from participants and does not deeply affect the way of life. The fans of football teams we surveyed in May 2000 (37 young Muscovites) did not know the history of these sports teams; up-to-date knowledge about recent and upcoming matches was enough for them. Of course, the game itself on the football field inspires them, but more significant (as can be judged from the interview) are the moments of general emotional release, the opportunity to “break away”, to express their feelings to the fullest (yell, rowdy).
Environmentalists. In general, the ecological consciousness of Russian youth - in the country of Chernobyl - is not so developed as to be realized in special life styles in the original philosophical basis. Even among student youth (the most cultured and informed among young people), according to our research, they are concerned about pollution environment, environmental disaster in less than a quarter of respondents (19.7%; Moscow State University study “Molodezh-2002”, N=718). Environmentally oriented groups are few in number and, to a certain extent, imitate forms of youth activity in the West. The actions of the Russian Greenpeace, for example, are more demonstrative than effective.
Some youth associations in their official materials demonstrate a clear orientation towards environmental issues, but in reality this is not the basis of group formation. IN similar cases The use of popular subcultural images for the image of organized structures is obvious. But there is another side: it is more convenient for spontaneous groups, based on some common interest that is not very accepted in society, to organize under official structures and support them to the extent that this does not interfere with the implementation of a special vision of the world and the social practices corresponding to them . Otherwise, the existence of some of these amateur associations would be almost impossible due to financial difficulties and legal obstacles.
Bikers versus motorcyclists. Sometimes spontaneous forms of subcultural activity are mistakenly correlated with some familiar Western styles, and phenomena of different nature are combined into one whole. This is the situation regarding bikers. In Russia there are a number of biker groups in the usual Western sense. By their origin, they are a model of Western bikers, but the social background here is different. In Russia, it is mainly wealthy people who can imitate Western bikers. Having special motorcycles (in Russia - unaffordable even for the “middle class”) and other iconic signs of bikerism, Russian bikers are most often just consumers of a certain cultural assortment. By expert assessments, most of them are not able to fix even simple breakdowns in a motorcycle; for any reason they turn to a service station.
Ravers. Among borrowings from the West in the European part of Russia are quite noticeable, mainly due to the funds mass media, ravers. “Rave” (from the English rave - to rave, nonsense, incoherent speech, also: to rage, roar, howl, rage, speak with enthusiasm) is interpreted in T. Thorne’s Dictionary of Modern Slang as “a wild party” , dancing or a situation of desperate behavior.”
Source life guidelines ravers became a musical style, or more precisely, samples of the life style of the most popular musicians who act in the charismatic role of idols - carriers (creators) of the corresponding sociocultural samples. Breaking away from its source, rave acquired international features, also characteristic of Russian youth followers. Russian ravers mainly borrow the behavior model of nightclub regulars. According to this model, the lifestyle of the Russian raver is nocturnal.
In Russia, rave culture develops with approximately a 5-year delay in relation to world practice.
Diggers. This kind of subcultural phenomenon includes diggers - researchers of underground communications. Dangers of staying in underground passages, the closeness of digger communities, the mystery of the dungeon world, devoid of everyday life - these properties of diggerism determine the internal motives for the interest of a certain part of young people in such forms of activity. There are parallels here with professional activity speleologists, but no less, it seems, with guerilla (without political motives, but only according to the self-perception of the participants), military intelligence (the military uniform is often used as an identification sign), adventures in the style of Indiana Jones.
If in the early 1990s the activity of diggers was noted mainly in Moscow, then today associations of diggers (usually not officially registered) exist in many cities of Russia (Vladivostok, Samara, etc.). They have a small number of participants (up to several dozen people) and are not looking for opportunities to expand it. Diggers, as a rule, have no desire to advertise their activities.
Tolkienists. Tolkienists stand apart in the youth subcultures of Russia. Their connection with a foreign source is obvious - the images of John Ronald Rowell Tolkien’s books “The Hobbit”, “The Lord of the Rings” and “The Silmarilion”, the plots of which were used as the basis for role-playing games that gave rise to a kind of social movement. At the same time, much in this movement is quite original, connected with Russian existential and ideological problems, with the Russian mentality.
In general, mythologization within the framework of this informal association is built according to the configuration of a romanticized and brighter world than the one that surrounds young Russians. It is characteristic that forms of communication are various kinds of discourses. The “family” organization of the Tolkien community also attracts attention. We know the facts when role-playing marriages later became real. In general, the loss of a clear line between reality and fiction turned out to be a way of compensating for anomie and the destruction of the ideals of the Soviet era. Quite seriously, the participants in Tolkien meetings see themselves as saviors of the world (in one of our entries, literally: “At home I told my mother: don’t you understand, we are performing feats, we are saving the world!”).
Ultimately, the mentality of Russians, previously realized in such forms as the Timur movement, was reflected in the Tolkien movement. Literary images writer Arkady Gaidar in the book “Timur and his team” (1940) determined the face social movement children and adolescents in the USSR for decades. Timur's detachments were created everywhere; their activities combined public benefit and romantic relationship to life. Against the backdrop of discrediting the images of Soviet youth literature, which provided models for behavior young man in a certain normative value system, including in the direct form of role-playing games, as was the case in Gaidar’s books, Tolkien’s mythologizations turned out to be in demand because they reproduced a similar construction: a completely completed and ideologically sanctified construction, easily reproduced in role-playing behavior.
a set of norms, values, ideas and behavioral stereotypes of traditional culture, interpreted by a specific, relatively closed community.
Excellent definition
SUBCULTURE
from lat. sub - under and culture), a set of specific. socio-psychol. characteristics (norms, values, stereotypes, tastes, etc.) that influence the lifestyle and thinking of certain nominal and real groups of people and allow them to realize and establish themselves as “we”, different from “they” (other representatives of society ).
Social base of S. - dept. age and social strata of the population, prof. groups, mass informal movements (see Informal associations), amateur associations, amateur clubs, religious. sects, sexual minorities, criminal structures.
S. is a relatively holistic phenomenon, which includes: a number of value orientations, norms of behavior, interaction and relationships; status structure; preferred sources of information; specific hobbies, tastes and ways of spending time; slang, folklore. Each of these features has a relatively stable structure, but their content varies depending on socio-cultural realities. The severity of these signs and the degree of development of S. in general are very different, which is largely due to the age and degree of extreme living conditions of its carriers.
The value orientations of the carriers of one or another S. are determined by the values and social practices of society, interpreted and transformed in accordance with the character of the S. (prosociality, asociality, antisociality), age, socio-professional and other specific needs, aspirations, and problems of its carriers.
Having more or less obvious features, value orientations a specific S influence the relationship to the world and with the world of its carriers, their self-awareness and self-determination, the choice of spheres and preferred methods of self-realization, etc.
Norms of behavior, interaction and relationships differ significantly in content, spheres and the extent of their regulatory influence. Norms in prosocial systems generally do not contradict social norms, but complement them. (or). transform them, reflecting the specific living conditions and value orientations of the carriers of a particular C. In antisocial C norms are directly opposite to social ones. In asocial ones there are more or less transformed social and partially antisocial norms
The character of C determines the areas of life in which the behavior, interaction and relationships of its carriers are regulated by the norms of C, as well as the degree of urgency and effectiveness of regulation. In antisocial Cs, normative regulation is strict in nature and covers almost the entire life of their carriers. In many asocial and in a number of millet -cial S regulation can affect only those spheres of life that constitute a given S, and the degree of imperativeness of regulation depends on the degree of isolation of groups of its carriers
In each C there is a more or less rigid status structure Status in in this case means a person’s position in the system of interpersonal relations of a group, determined by his achievements in life activities that are significant to her, reputation, authority, etc.
Carriers of a certain C are usually distinguished by a set of their preferred sources of information and a hierarchy of their importance: channels of interpersonal communication, newspapers, magazines, radio and television programs designed for carriers of a given C, specific newspaper sections.n. magazines, national, foreign, regional, municipal printed and electronic mass media Information, selected, transformed and perceived in accordance with the value orientations characteristic of C, largely determines the content of communication of its carriers.
In each S one can find more or less clearly expressed hobbies, tastes, and ways of spending free time common to its bearers, which are determined by their age and socio-cultural characteristics, their living conditions, as well as fashion. In this case, fashion is understood as a form of social regulation , reflecting the periodic change of patterns of mass behavior and providing more or less adequate external. “design” of the constantly changing content of Naib’s life. fashion is clearly manifested in clothing, household items, hairstyle, as well as behavior, speech, and music. and other aesthetics. preferences, etc. Fashion is one of the sign systems through which interpersonal and intergroup communication occurs, as well as a specific means of introducing a person to social and cultural experience. Fashion easily spreads from one social group to another and changes depending on the nature of the environment in which it functions (gender, age and sociocultural composition, value orientations, living conditions, etc.). In this regard, we can talk about the modes of certain pronounced C (youth, various deviant, etc.).
Jargon is a kind of dialect that distinguishes speakers of a certain C. The lexical composition of the jargon is usually quite mobile and unstable. During a certain period of time, usually relatively short, jargon is largely updated, because within its framework there is a constant replenishment of synonymous series and the replacement of their elements. Jargon in any C. includes several groups of words and expressions The first one is commonly used words and expressions that have received a different meaning in the jargon (for example, bloodworm is a mechanic for sailors, cabbage is dollar bills for small traders, etc.). The second is the commonly used words and expressions, which in the jargon are given a multi-valued expressive coloring, which allows them to be used more often than is accepted by speech norms (for example, “iron”, “cool”, etc.). The third is words that exist only in slang (for example, anglicisms in youth C, vocabulary in criminal groups, words that replace terms used in professional groups). Fourth - words and expressions characteristic only of certain regions, incl. and having roots in regional dialects. Jargons differ significantly in the number of lexical units included in them, expressive coloring and intensity of use (these indicators are maximum in youthful and deviant jargons).
In each S, its own folklore is born and exists - a complex of verbal, muses, and playful types of creativity. The verbal type of creativity includes various legends from the history of the community of S-speakers, about the life and “deeds” of its legendary representatives, poetic and prose works specific in content, anecdotes , and in children. C - counting rhymes, teasers, horror stories, etc.
Music folklore is, as a rule, songs that express a certain worldview and attitude towards the environment, feelings and aspirations, features of lifestyle and thinking, reflecting and promoting values and norms, telling about a number of real or mythical events in the life of its bearers.
Games can be either created within the framework of C (intellectual - in a number of professional ones, card games - in delinquent games, mobile games - in children's games, etc.), or well-known (often modified to one degree or another), which have become significant for speakers of a particular S, a sign of the players’ belonging to one or another S.
Subcultural folklore has specific features of any folklore - collectivity of the creative process, traditionalism, unfixed forms of transmission of works from generation to generation and from one carrier to another, variability of form and content
In one or another specific C, a set of types folklore creativity and its content varies depending on its nature, degree of formalization, degree of closedness. Thus, in C children's, youth, religions. sects, criminal communities. there are all types of creativity. At the same time, in folklore from certain social and professional. layers, informal movements, amateurs.n. loves associations, there is either only verbal creativity, or verbal and musical, or verbal and playful
C perform a number of functions in relation to society and people. They represent a specific way of differentiating developed nationalities. cultures, their translation to certain communities, as well as designations of the social and age stratification of society. Pro-social and partly asocial Cs contribute to the stabilization of society and the individual, and antisocial and some asocial ones contribute to their disorganization. Some act as countercultures (for example, criminal camp ), others generate innovative phenomena and contribute to their entry into the culture of society. C, being an object of identification of a person, is one of the ways of his isolation in society, which determines its influence on the individual’s self-awareness, self-esteem and self-perception
The study of youth subcultures is an important area of youth sociology. Since the 60s of the twentieth century, leading sociologists from around the world have addressed this issue. In domestic sociology, the analysis of youth subcultural phenomena until the end of the 80s was carried out within a very narrow framework. To a certain extent, this was explained by the fact that these phenomena, due to established scientific paradigms, were perceived as a social pathology. In the process of formation and development of youth subcultures, the following types were formed:
- - politicized subcultures - actively participate in political life and have a clear ideological affiliation;
- - ecological and ethical subcultures - are engaged in the construction of philosophical concepts and fight for the environment;
- - non-traditional religious subcultures - mainly a passion for Eastern religions (Buddhism, Hinduism);
- - radical youth subcultures - characterized by organization, the presence of older leaders, and increased aggressiveness;
- - lifestyle subcultures - groups of young people forming their own way of life;
- - subcultures based on interests - young people united by common interests - musical, sports, etc.;
- - the subculture of “golden youth” - typical for capital cities - is focused on leisure activities (one of the most closed subcultures). Belsky V.Yu., Belyaev A.A. "Sociology", M., "INFRA - M", 2005. - 399 p.
Analysis of various types of youth subcultures shows that this phenomenon is dynamic and developing, manifesting itself through many forms. They differ in their origin and internal organization, at different historical times, some are of greater relevance than others.
Subcultures of the 30s-60s
One of the most vibrant and well-known subcultural communities are youth movements associated with certain genres of music. The image of musical subcultures is formed largely by imitation of the stage image of performers popular in a particular subculture. The formation and development of subcultures occurred quite a long time ago. The most striking period in the formation of subcultures was the beginning of 1930 - 1940.
Swingjugends. In 1939, an informal movement called the Swingjugends appeared in Germany. The most developed was mainly in Hamburg, Frankfurt and Berlin. “Swinging youth” - as a rule, these were children from bourgeois families - high school students, students, young musicians. They were fond of American jazz and swing dancing. The appearance of the “swinging youth” was the antipode to the official image of the “correct” German youth. "Swing-Boys" dressed "American style". They wore long double-breasted jackets with checkered or "tennis" stripes, with huge shoulders, wide trousers with large cuffs, and boots with thick soles. Ties and scarves, like clothing in general, were supposed to be as bright as a “jungle fire.” Young fashionistas had to make do in order to be stylish in conditions of military shortages - jackets were altered from their fathers', old rubber soles were glued to boots. The swing youth walked with a deliberately slouchy gait, the obligatory cigarette hanging from the corner of their mouth, and they held dance parties where they played American and English music. In the end, the authorities banned swing dancing.
Bikers. Bikers and the biker subculture, like many other things, came from America. This is one of the oldest subcultures, formed back in the 1940-1950s. The appearance of bikers is quite recognizable: leather, jeans, metal accessories - this is not a complete list of components of a biker style. Musical preferences include rock in all its forms, although some also listen to pop music. Nowadays it is carried out great amount music festivals, where the vast majority of viewers and listeners are bikers. Such festivals are fun entertainment program, plenty of beer and rock and roll. There are also various rock clubs where bikers like to gather. Such clubs can always be identified by the motorcycles parked at the entrance. There, in the parking lot, they not only await their owner, but also attract the attention of others with their impressive appearance. Every biker pays great attention not only to the technical equipment of his steel horse, but also to his external attractiveness. In addition to freedom, bikers value their biker brotherhood and are always ready to help each other.
Teddy fights. The Teddy Boy subculture originated in 1953 in London and quickly spread throughout the UK. Teddy boys dressed in tapered trousers or trousers, long jackets, fitted coats, double-collared frock coats, and bow ties. So they tried to be like dandies and “golden youth”. The Teddys were mostly from working class backgrounds. Teddy boys are the first youth culture in England that differentiates itself by having its own dress code and certain hobbies, and as a result adjusts the market to suit itself. It was with the advent of Teddy that the first youth clothing stores and youth television programs appeared. For Teddy Boys, appearance and clothing are important - this is what makes them stand out from the crowd. They were distinguished by rather hooligan behavior, which shocked the older conservative generation, and the newspapers usually “inflated” the hype around them even more, exaggerating and adding fuel to the fire.
Fashion. Mods are a British youth subculture that formed in the late 1950s. among the London petty bourgeoisie and reached its peak in the mid-1960s. Mods replaced teddy boys, and later the skinhead subculture was formed from among the most radical mods. Fashion people chose motor scooters as their means of transport. Mods typically met in clubs and seaside resorts. The fashions were not united, they did not have some kind of connecting idea where the ideas of brotherhood and unity were promoted. They were just young people who got together at night and had fun until the morning. And yet, they left a mark on history with their bright appearance and unique tuning of their scooters. Initially, the preference for clothing was tailored suits, later - just suits from Italian and British brands. The language is extremely limited. They use drugs - pills and dark beer. In the second half of the 60s. The mod movement waned and has since been revived only sporadically.
Skinheads. The first mentions of skinheads in the press and music were found in England in the late 60s of the 20th century. Skinheads of the 60s had common features style with the mod subculture. The subculture was completely apolitical from the very beginning. Neither left nor right politics prevailed. These were tough guys who equally hated young bourgeois majors and relaxed hippie drug addicts. The ideology of “White Power” has emerged - White Power, which must maintain racial balance not only in Europe, but throughout the world. Real skinheads do not call for the destruction of other races, they simply say that everyone has their own home, their own homeland, the land of their ancestors. The skins cut their collars, narrowed their trousers, took off their badges, and put heavy construction boots on their feet. This is how the canon of skinhead clothing was established. Everything about this clothing is strictly functional, adapted for a street fight. Nothing superfluous: no glasses, badges, no bags, shoulder straps, nothing that prevents you from dodging the enemy’s hands. Instead of black laces, white laces appeared in the boots, as a symbol of the fact that the skins are fighting for the White Race.
Hipsters. Hipsters are a youth subculture in the USSR, which became widespread in large Soviet cities from the late 1940s to the early 1960s, having mainly American image life. Hipsters were distinguished by their deliberate apoliticality, a certain cynicism in their judgments, and a negative attitude towards certain norms of Soviet morality. Western cinema played a major role in the development of the dude subculture. In the first years of the existence of this phenomenon, the appearance of the dudes was rather caricatured: wide bright trousers, a baggy jacket, a hat with wide brim, brightly colored socks, the infamous “fire in the jungle” tie. Later, the dress code of Soviet dudes underwent significant changes: the famous pipe trousers, a whipped “cock” on the head, an elegant jacket with wide shoulders, a narrow herring tie, and an umbrella-cane appeared. Among the shoes among Soviet fashionistas, pointed-toe high-top boots were popular rubber soles. For a girl who positioned herself as a representative of the “stylish” culture, it was enough to wear bright makeup and wear a “crown of the world” hairstyle. Tight skirts, tightly fitting the girl’s hips, were considered especially chic. In their musical preferences, dudes gravitated more towards jazz and rock. n-roll. Favorite dances were boogie-woogie, rock and roll, and later the twist and shake. Stilyags were distinguished not only by their special clothes, music, dances and manners, but also by their specific slang, partially borrowed from jazzmen V. T. Sociology of youth. M. 1996, p. 54.
In addition to the previously discussed subcultures, in the 30-60s of the last century, such cultures as Edelweiss Pirates, Rockabilly, Ore-boys and Hipsters appeared.
Subcultures of the 70-80s of the XX century
Hip-hop. The hip-hop subculture began in 1974 in the African-American and Latino neighborhoods of the Bronx. Clothing style in the hip-hop subculture. Freedom of action presupposes loose clothing. Therefore, the hip-hop style is characterized by men's T-shirts, tank tops, sweatshirts, hoodies and hoodies. The colors of clothing were initially dark and gray, but over time this convention was overcome in favor of more positive shades. On their feet, hip-hop fans prefer to wear wide trumpet jeans, often with a low waist. They are usually worn in such a way that part of the underwear becomes visible. We can call this a form of disdain for the norms of culture and ethics accepted in society. Hip-hop style shoes are 100% sporty. In addition to attributes of a purely sporting nature, such as bandanas, wristbands, and baseball caps, which are worn by almost all representatives of the movement, the hip-hop style also includes jewelry, typical for those whose financial capabilities are significantly above average. Ponomarchuk V.A., Tolstykh A.V. Secondary education: two critical points modern school.// Socis 12/94 p.54
Ravers. Ravers are usually classified as musicians. At the heart of this subculture there is: an easy, carefree attitude to life, the desire to live for today, to be dressed in the latest fashion. The ravers subculture emerged in the 80s. in the USA and UK. It has been spreading in Russia since the early 90s. An integral part of the raver lifestyle is night discos with powerful sound and laser beams. Ravers' clothing is characterized by bright colors and the use of artificial materials. The development of the rave subculture went in parallel with the spread of drugs, in particular amphetamines. Taking stimulants and hallucinogens for the purpose of “expanding consciousness” has, unfortunately, become an almost integral part of the raver subculture. At the same time, many youth culture figures, including DJs - key figures in the rave subculture - have expressed and continue to express an extremely negative attitude towards drug use.
Punks. Youth subculture, which emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia, characteristic features which are a critical attitude towards society and politics. The philosophy of punk is mainly about the fight against dullness, aggression and monotony. Punks have a colorful image. Many punks dye their hair bright unnatural colors, comb it and fix it with hairspray, brilliantine, gel or beer so that it stands up straight. In the 1980s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks. They wear ripped jeans tucked into heavy boots and sneakers. “Dead style” predominates in clothing. Punks put skulls and signs on clothes and accessories. Punks also wear various attributes of rocker subcultures: collars, wristbands, bracelets, mostly leather, with spikes, rivets and chains. Many punks get tattoos.
Goths. Goths are representatives of a youth subculture that emerged in the late 70s of the 20th century in the wake of post-punk. The Gothic subculture is quite diverse and heterogeneous. The main elements of the Gothic image are the predominance of black in clothing, the use of metal jewelry with the symbols of the Gothic subculture, and characteristic makeup. Typical attributes used by the Goths are the ankh, the ancient Egyptian symbol of immortality, skulls, crosses, upright and inverted pentagrams, bats. Makeup is used by both men and women. It is not an everyday attribute, and is usually applied before visiting concerts and gothic clubs. Makeup usually consists of two elements: white powder for the face and dark eyeliner around the eyes. Hairstyles in gothic fashion are quite varied. During the post-punk era, the main hairstyle was medium-length tousled hair. But in the modern subculture, many people wear long hair, or even mohawks. It is typical for Goths to dye their hair black or, less commonly, red. Some Goths prefer clothes styled after the fashion of the 18th-19th centuries. with corresponding attributes: lace, long gloves and long dresses for women, tailcoats and top hats for men. The normal state for Goths is "angst" - a fairly comprehensive term that describes the usual Gothic state. The humor of the Goths is quite specific - it is purely black humor.
Hippie. One of the first musical youth subcultures of our time were hippies. Hippie is a philosophy and subculture that originally emerged in the 1960s in the USA. The movement flourished in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Initially, hippies protested against the puritanical morality of some Protestant churches, and also promoted the desire to return to natural purity through love and pacifism.
Hippies believe:
- - that a person should be free;
- - that freedom can be achieved only by changing the internal structure of the soul;
- - that beauty and freedom are identical to each other and that the realization of both is a purely spiritual problem;
- - that everyone who thinks differently is mistaken. Shchepanskaya T.B. System: texts and traditions of subculture. M., 2004
The hippie culture has its own symbols, signs of belonging and attributes. Representatives of the hippie movement, in accordance with their worldview, are characterized by the introduction of ethnic elements into their costumes: beads, woven from beads or threads, bracelets, “baubles” and so on.
In the 70-80s, other subcultures appeared such as Metalheads, Freaks and Glamor.
Subcultures 1990-2000
Cyber Goths. Approximately, the origins of the Cyber Goth subculture originate in 1990. It is worth noting that an exact classification and definition of this informal trend does not yet exist; of course, there are certain features that distinguish this trend from others, but according to the deep misconception of many, they have nothing in common with the usual Gotha subculture. The origins themselves were taken precisely from the Gothic movement, but in short term were completely reoriented. Like most subcultures, Cyber Goths were formed due to musical trends. The main directions of Cyber Ready's musical preferences were the sounds of the guitar and standard rock songs. The main hairstyles used are: dreadlocks - hair dyed in different colors, Iroquois are not uncommon among representatives of this movement, but they have nothing in common with the punk subculture. The color range ranges from green to black, but bright ones are predominantly used. Clothing is mainly made of leather or synthetic material. The design included elements of microchips, showing Cyber Ready's passion for computers. This is the distinguishing feature of Cyber Ready from Goths. Shchepanskaya T.B. System: texts and traditions of subculture. M., 2004.
Grangers. One of the oldest subcultures is grunge; they arose under the influence of the grunge musical movement, from where they actually emerged as a separate culture around 1990-1991. Its founders, the Nirvana group, who were able to promote not only their style to the masses, but also gave birth to a whole generation of their followers. By their appearance, Grangers can be easily distinguished from representatives of other subcultures; they are distinguished by a checkered shirt, sneakers and long hair - these three elements completely form the image and image. Moreover, preference is given to worn-out clothes. Often, such things to create an image, style and image are bought at second-hand stores. In their existence, they are completely harmless to others. Among musical styles, priority is naturally given to Grunge. The grunger subculture is also distinguished by its conservatism, its reluctance to change its ways of life, norms, philosophy or value system. The fashion for grunge ended around 2000-2005, but even now only those people who are not indifferent to this trend adhere to this subculture. It is worth noting that it was from the Granger direction that an element of clothing was later adopted - a T-shirt or sweatshirt with black and red colors. As for age, there are no restrictions. Among the grungers you can meet both 15-year-olds and fully formed and established people.
Alternatives. The Alternative subculture was formed in the first half of the 90s. It included representatives of rappers, metalheads and punks. Of all youth music styles, they stand out for their friendliness towards representatives of any subcultures. Unlike everyone else musical movements, The alternative combined several styles at once, which made it possible to create a completely separate subculture. The HardCore style was taken as a basis. As for the musicians, and not the followers, they tried to make a breakthrough in music, rejecting existing standards. The main contribution that has been made to world music is the combination of rap and rock. Closer to the turn of 2000, the new style entered the mainstream and began to spread en masse throughout the world. The appearance of the Alternatives immediately catches the eye. They are easy to distinguish from representatives of other subcultures. They wear loose clothing and piercings. The peak of Alternative's popularity came in 2005. This subculture did not have a special ideology; everything rested on a musical experiment, which radically changed the development of world music.
During this period, such a subculture as Tolkienists appeared.
Behavior, clothing and other aspects. There are subcultures that are formed on national, demographic, professional, geographical and other bases. In particular, subcultures are formed by ethnic communities that differ in their dialect from the linguistic norm. Another famous example is youth subcultures.
History of the term
In 1950, American sociologist David Riesman, in his research, introduced the concept of subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values preferred by a minority. A more thorough analysis of the phenomenon and concept of subculture was carried out by a British sociologist and media expert Dick Habdige in his book Subculture: The Meaning of Style. In his opinion, subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values.
Fandom and the emergence of youth subcultures
In the 1970s and 80s, following new genres in rock music, metalheads and punks formed. The first cultivated personal freedom and independence. The latter had a pronounced either apolitical position or a clearly expressed political position; for politicized punk rock, the motto is idealized anarchy (but not always). With the emergence of goth rock, a goth subculture emerged in the 1980s. Its characteristic features are gloom, the cult of melancholy, the aesthetics of horror films and gothic novels. In New York, thanks to emigrants from Jamaica, a hip-hop culture appeared with its own music, appearance and lifestyle.
In the 1990s and 2000s, emo kids and cyberpunks became widespread youth subcultures. The emo subculture is one of the youngest (many of its representatives are minors), it promotes vivid feelings and expressiveness of emotions. Cybers, as an offshoot of industrial rock, are passionate about the ideas of an imminent man-made apocalypse.
Art subcultures
Most youth subcultures not related to musical genres originated from hobbies a certain type arts or hobbies such as graffiti.
Internet community and internet cultures
Since the mid-1990s, with the spread of Internet technologies everywhere, interactive subcultures began to appear. The very first one can be considered the Fido community. Hackers are often classified as a subculture.
Industrial and sports subcultures
At the beginning of the 20th century, with the romanticization of the urban lifestyle and the inability of some young people to live outside the city, industrial (urban) subcultures emerged. Some industrial subcultures came from fans of industrial music, but the greatest influence on these subcultures was made by computer games(for example, Fallout).
Popular sports subcultures include:
- The subculture of football and football-related activities includes football clubs, football fans and cheerleading.
- Athletes, or “jocks” (eng. sportsman - “competitive person”, “player for the entertainment of the crowd”), including enthusiastic and practicing fans of strength and combat sports (bodybuilding, powerlifting, workout, various martial arts And so on). In the late USSR and Russia in the first half of the 1990s, “athletes” were used by pro-political movements in the fight against “informals” and were known as “lubers”. Later, having remained out of work, they were used by the criminal world as cannon fodder in criminal wars, remembered in folklore of the 1990s as “lads”, “bulls”, “gopniks” in tracksuits.
Countercultures
The oldest is the underworld counterculture. Its appearance was caused by the natural isolation of persons who violate the law (exile to remote places, imprisonment, “gatherings”) from the main culture. As a result of this, a very rigid subculture was formed with a clear hierarchical ladder and its own laws. IN different countries this subculture has its own distinctive characteristics.
In Russia after the 1990s, many elements of this subculture penetrated into popular culture: elements of blatny slang, blatnaya song and tattoos. Gopniks are often classified as representatives of the criminal subculture. However, the gopniks themselves (“hooligans”) do not distinguish themselves as a special subculture, and this definition can be considered nominal.
Another striking example of counterculture is the radical part of the skinhead subculture. Originating as a musical subculture, this subculture was associated with reggae and ska music for a long time, but later some skinheads joined radical political movements. One should not confuse the subculture itself, which is generally apolitical (such as traditional skinheads), and the radical part of the subculture (counterculture), which is associated with neo-Nazis, anti-communists and other political beliefs.
Milieu
One of the types of subcultures can be considered milieu (French milieu - environment, setting) - a set of human living conditions and the everyday social environment of a certain social group or social stratum. Sociologists describe milieu as groups of people characterized by special characteristics of behavior, culture, clothing, etc. The lifestyle, values and behavioral norms in milieu are formed in the process of human socialization.
Relationships between subcultures
Subcultures, like any cultural phenomenon, arose not in a cultural vacuum, but in a culturally saturated environment. The society of the 20th century is oversaturated with various ideas, philosophical movements and other cultural elements. Therefore, it cannot be said that subcultures are isolated and antagonistic to mass culture; they have difficult relationships, both with mass culture and with other subcultures.
Genetic connections of subcultures
Family ties between cultures make it possible to trace the movement of peoples, language changes and human technological development. Family ties between subcultures also help track changing attitudes and developments in the 20th century. Perhaps the most striking example of related subcultures is the punk subculture and its descendants: goths and others.
Conflicts
There is antagonism between some types of subcultures. This concerns musical subcultures and conflicts based on different musical tastes. For example, punks and rappers, thrashers and grunge fans.
see also
Notes
Literature
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- Glushkova O. M. Theoretical aspects of the analysis of subculture // Architecton: news of universities. - 2009. - No. 26.
- Subculture // Encyclopedia of Sociology / Comp. A. A. Gritsanov, V. L. Abushenko, G. M. Evelkin, G. N. Sokolova, O. V. Tereshchenko.. - Minsk: Book House, 2003. - 1312 p.
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- Matskevich I.M. Doctor of Law. sciences, prof. Department of Criminology, Psychology and Criminal Executive Law